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Re: M20 Sump plate

I've come to the conclusion, that despite using sealant on the gaskets, the oil will capillary sideways through the mesh filter. I always sandwich the mesh between the gaskets and make sure that a bead of sealant penetrates the mesh between the gaskets. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: M20 Sump plate

['They're blind threads in the crankcase...']..

They do break through on some crankcases...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: M20 Sump plate

Thanks for these replies.
Ron, I'll be using a gasket on either side of the mesh & working sealant into the holes in the mesh as you describe. I think I might try Hylomar gel this time around?
Ian, thanks for the info on the studs. I just looked at a spare crankcase which has blind holes. It makes obvious sense to have open threads sealed properly. In peoples experience, is it hard to remove these studs with the motor in the bike?

Re: M20 Sump plate

Scraping the crud away, I've had a better look at my crankcase casting & the left front stud hole runs into the interior. I might redo that one come oil change day. Judging by this example no other holes could be open on any similar casting, which I presume means all of them?

Re: M20 Sump plate

Bob,
I did this with the motor in the bike. One stud had iffy threads and would not work with the 2 nuts method.
I had to weld a nut on the stud and got it out that way.
4 new studs and seal on all threads and no more leaks. 2 years.

Baz

email (option): binnawan@iinet.net.au

Re: M20 Sump plate

Thanks for that Baz. I'll have a go soon.

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