Hi

I was reading the post about wheel building and thought the images showing the spoke lacing are hard to follow for the beginner so here are my tweaked images that are (hopefully) easier to understand.

A couple of things to note...

1 the front wheel is shown as viewed from the LEFT HAND SIDE
2 the rear is shown as viewed from the RIGHT HAND SIDE
3 Left & Right are as per the rider when sat on the bike
4 the colours are as follows...

red = right side outside spoke
orange = right side inside spoke
blue = left side outside spoke
green = left side inside spoke

I'll give it a try this afternoon, it's for a little BSA KC10, but spoke pattern looks the same, WD models of this type had WM2 rims, to be compatible with the existing tyres in stock at the depots.

Lex

email (option): welbike@outlook.com

Well done, the colouring should help.
As a hub manufacture I've had a nightmare trying to get rims pierced correctly.
It all goes wrong at the point of the inner tube hole.
Depending on the design of the hub you can have a "drive" spoke and a "braking" spoke.
These must be the strongest connections in a wheel.
I've never met rim piercer that knew this, apart from Arie Haan.
Even then his staff often got it wrong.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@pesltd.uk

Haan wheels, they are good! but the old man passed away, guess that was Arie? his sone has continued the business in a brand new workshop.

Visited earlier this year, but they could not supply me with nice unplated rims, well maybe, but they looked "off"

Anyway am procastrinating lacing the rear wheel, but will get to it eventually.

Lex

email (option): welbike@outlook.com

Lex you'll spoil that restoration if you paint the spokes those colours :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Ron, the colours are French Fairground Attraction. Just be sure to have a spring-loaded carrier for an oil can on the front forks ! :grinning:

Please also note the lacing pattern: this is the number of red (or blue) spokes that an orange (or green) spoke crosses between hub and rim. BSA used cross 2 on the drum side of the front wheel, cross 4 on the speedo drive side, and cross 4 on both sides of the rear wheel. Cross 4 is strongest, but the distance between the front brake drum and the rim is too short, that's why they only used cross 2. On the rear wheel a separate drum solves this problem, the rear wheel has to cope with the torque from the engine, hence cross 4 on both sides.

The lacing pattern influences the spoke lengths and the angle for the nipple holes in the rim.

email (option): wd.register@gmail.com

If you think about it you can brake faster than you can speed up so there is the potential for a higher torque load on the front wheel spokes when braking hard than the rear under acceleration... I know the rear brake also helps you stop but the vast majority of the braking is done by the front wheel.

As for 2 cross verses 4 cross the bigger factor in my experience is the angle the spoke leaves the hub flange, with the 2 cross it's much more radial so puts a greater strain on the hub flange than the 4 cross setup which is virtually tangential to the hub.

I've had hub flanges crack on my mountain bikes, now granted those hubs were trying to be as light as possible (probably too light in hindsight) but the more radial the angle the spoke leaves hub the more likely the hub flange would fail.

I've not had a problem with the flanges on my M20 hubs but then the motorbike's build is closer to that of a tank than a weight conscious pushbike's minimal approach.

Had no problems lacing the wheel, just followed some pictures I already had in the PC, now to figure out the offset, may need your help for that Ron! I have it for the civvy K10/C10 WM1 wheel, 30mm from drum flange to rim, so theoretically I can measure the difference between the WM1 and WM2 rims, and divide that by 2, and distract it from the 30mm. size, but it would maybe still be guesswork? as the KC10 sprocket is more dished out, (for the bigger tyre) it might still be different!

Lex

PS, colour wise, I made it all red for now!

email (option): welbike@outlook.com

Lex I measured all three of mine and have emailed the results.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks a lot Ron!! will get on it,

Lex

email (option): welbike@outlook.com