Good afternoon all,
Following my post on 14 July, I have now done a little research to try to overcome the issue of no useable drive side flywheel 7/8" dia shaft part 26901 or 1-3/4" o/d x 1-1/4" wide outer race bearing part 23515. My existing parts are slightly rust damaged as the bike has stood for about 50 years with no oil in the engine. Neither part is good enough to run the standard roller arrangement, so I decided to see if an alternative could be achieved, a little like the timing side bearing upgrade used on the WD-CO model.
I have done a sketch of what I am thinking of using, but would welcome any comments or observations from the wise and learned gentlemen of the group.
My only reservation with this, is that the new needle bearing outer has only one oil feed groove in the centre of the new bearing outer case that will require a small die ground extension groove to line up with the oil way feed hole in the flywheel housing bearing mount.
I hope the above makes sense and will become clear "if" i manage to attach my sketch.
I look forward to and comments or advise.
Kind regards all
Richard
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email (option): crookie.r@sky.com
The images aren't displaying but they open with a mouse click.
Will a needle roller cope with crankshaft flex, especially on the drive side ?
Thanks for your reply Rik
I've no idea why the pictures haven't loaded properly.
As for the bearing coping with the crankshaft flex, I have no idea... The shaft is 7/8" diameter and the bearing is very close to the flywheel?.
I'm just thinking of ways around it as I can't find replacement parts. I suppose that the only way to find o=ut is to run with it and then strip and examine it after a few hundred miles?.
For now, I'll wait and see if there are any more suggestions.
Thanks again.
email (option): crookie.r@sky.com
The images are displaying for me. I rebuilt a pre war model J engine a couple of years ago. Like yours it had suffered bad storage corrosion. I replaced the mains and Big End. The Big End was given to me by a RE Forum member which was put together by a guy who used to builr RE engines for racing. I think the mains came from Hitchcocks (They do a conversion) and a friend made me some bushes on his lathe to take up the smaller OD of the outer races. Ron
Likewise, I'm unable to post pictures????
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email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Too late to edit. Just to confirm, these are needle roller bearings. Ron
PS Rik (or anyone). Can you view my image? They open for me
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Anything here? #24567A? https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/search-query?keyword=needle%20roller%20bearings
Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Hi Ron
Thanks for your reply.
This looks similar to whet I'm thinking only it looks as though your shaft was 1" and therefor the bearing fitted internal but the outer needed a sleeve?.
I couldn't find a bearing 1-1/4 " wide with a 7/8" bore so therefore need to sleeve the shaft.
I feel happier about it all now Ive seen your setup.
Thanks again.
email (option): crookie.r@sky.com
Hi Ron
Thanks but i went through all of Hitchcocks first. The stumbling block was the bearing is 1-1/4" wide and 1-3/4 " O/D which is what I've found. The bore is 1" though hence the home made sleeve 7/8 id x 1" od x 1-1/4 long.
Richard
email (option): crookie.r@sky.com
Ron, I can click and view the image perfectly but it's not nicely incorporated in the page as they were previously. There seems to be another ImgBB glitch.
Richard, the way I see it (tell me if I'm Wrong) You could make a non hardened bush with a wall thickness of 1/16" and press them both on with an interference fit (some Loctite Bearing fit wouldn't go amiss) Or the shaft could be MIG welded and machined down to 1".
Rik it's all going to the dogs I'm afraid, and since members have left in their droves for FB! Probably not worth the time/money/effort to do anything about it.:confused: Ron
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email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Wouldn't just be easier to make the correct replacement parts?
Mark
email (option): pes.sales@pesltd.uk
Probably if you have the means to machine the correct tapers and the keyways and then harden it and (do you have to grind it to size afterwards?) But the correct main bearings aren't available either. Without disturbing the crank assembly, you can fit a needle roller conversion. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
I think this will work just fine. It's close enough to the flywheel and it's a substantial bearing. I have done this before on 1920s V twins and also use these for the big ends. The bearings are cheap enough and worth a try. What I found is that the bearing itself does not need too much interference as it contracts the bearing too much. I would make your parts a close fit and use the correct loctite. Would be nice to make as original but not really practical price wise unless you could do it yourself. It would involves grinding tapers after hardening cutting threads and maybe a keyway, and that's just for the shaft.
There is not a lot we can't make Ron, finding the time to do it is harder.
Mark
email (option): pes.sales@pesltd.uk
This shows that the first thing you need to get after entering the world of old motorcycles is a lathe.
Then you will need a mill and............................
I have a number of old bikes for which no parts are available and you eventually end up with £25.000 of machine tools to make a £2 part.
I am in the process of making for a 1929 AJS:
both main shafts
big end shaft
connecting rod sleeve
special size rollers
camshafts
valves and guides
all timing chest gears
oil pump
clutch sprocket
rear wheel sprocket
gear box 2nd gear
gear box lay shaft
And then most will need heat treatment and grinding which I can do myself.
It is a lot of work!
The bike was run out of oil in 1945 and seized and then left out in the weather for 50 years.
Unless you have an old bike like a M20 for which parts are still available, you need a machine shop at home.
Good morning everyone.
Just a quick thank you all for your advise and comments on this subject.
I am going to run with the parts described on my sketch and am confident that it will perform at least as good as original. I am a true believer in keeping things "as original", but on this occasion, the search for parts have run dry and I feel that I am doing something that is not irreversible in the future if the part becomes available.
I hope Ron, that your fears of the website loosing enthusiasts to facebook will take a turn for the better soon and members start returning, as this is such a good website with knowledgeable people willing to help others.
Thanks again everyone,
Best regards
Richard
email (option): crookie.r@sky.com