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Head Gasket fail (Edited by Author)

Hello Folks

i was hopefully going to load a few pictures of my finally finished civilian M20 restoration as is looking great. I'll have to postpone that a little as the bloody head gasket went after around 5 - 6 miles; thankfully only 200 yrds from home so could push it.

I attach a pic of the gasket. This was a new copper gasket from Drags after a modest engine strip (just head /barrel valve grind etc). I torqued to 30 ft-lb and then again at least twice after warm up and cool down.






Any ideas of what happened here? Ive seen comments about overheating and wondered about that and maybe there is some clue in cylinder head colour near the plug; its a bit whitish? Also noted that when i opend oil tank after stopping; it was smoking in there? Ive never looked in there before when hot and so dont know if this is normal or not for a hot bike.

The bike is a bit of a bugger to start (10 kicks or so) but runs really smooth on stand and quickly idles at 0 advance and no choke, maybe suggesting timing is ok?

In the short time it ran I thought had low power, up a mild hill it struggled in 3rd but maybe gasket had already given a little?

The timing was good recently and spent ages checking/double checking. Will do again this week.

any suggestions would be much appreciated.

cheers
Neil

email (option): nlhclarke@gmail.com

Re: Head Gasket fail

Those modern composite head gaskets are crap! (the originals were asbestos) Do a search for "Solid copper head gaskets" Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Head Gasket fail

About a year ago I used a composite gasket like that simply because I had it. The bike did about 20 miles before blowing it. I usually use Draganfly's copper gaskets. They can be annealed & re used.

Re: Head Gasket fail

Cheers Ron

I see a few of those asbestos/copper gaskets as NOS on Ebay. Even though supposedly original are they still no good? I just wondered if the original design gasket was bad. I'll search for a solid one anyway. Cheers Neil

email (option): nlhclarke@gmail.com

Re: Head Gasket fail

I still wouldn't use an original NOS gasket when solid gaskets are available. Drags have them:-
https://draganfly.co.uk/shop/74185/head-gasket-solid-copper-annealed/#66-0058

tighten down, check once after you've run the engine and then forget about it. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Head Gasket fail

Just watch out there are a lot of head gaskets around that are made from the wrong copper.
I have to have mine made in the usa as the copper is correct and the thickness I order.
I've been toying about having some M20 ones made, but they won't be cheap.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

Re: Head Gasket fail (Edited by Author)

The very first time I ever rode a M20 was was about 1978 and it went about 10 miles before the head gasket failed. The solid copper ones are the only type I will use now.

Solid copper ones are available on Ebay.

Re: Head Gasket fail

When my M20/21 first went on the road in my ownership (early 1980s), I used to be able to use the composite gaskets twice, if they were properly annealed after the first use.
Solid copper the only way to go now.

Re: Head Gasket fail

I would recommend a solid gasket made from 1mm thick copper to maintain the correct squish dimensions when running, assuming the piston is flush with the top of the barrel at TDC...Crank flex is taken into account to arrive at this conclusion after previous testing and experimenting with tightening the clearance...Ian

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