I recently ordered a DVR2 regulator for my 1944 WM20. I read a previous thread on mounting the unit in the original case to maintain the original appearance. I have removed the mechanical regulator from the base of the case but my question is how the new regulator attaches to the base. I have yet to receive it so I don’t know if it is designed like the original with tapped holes in it. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Barry.
It has a stud protrudng from the bottom of the unit, so it's just a case of drilling a hole in the orignal regulators base plate to enable attachment...Ian
Good choice. This is how I do them. Solder to the original terminals and use the original plug in split bullets. There's just enough room if you cut out the fiber board base. Ron
Thanks Ian and Ron. Was hoping that I didn’t have to use an adhesive. I prefer mechanical connections. I saw in a previous thread that the fiber board didn’t have to be cut out but I’ll find out when the unit arrives. The mechanical regulator was driving me around the bend.
I just wanted to close the loop on this thread. The DVR2 arrived yesterday and I soldered it to the terminals of the original regulator base. It wasn’t necessary to cut the fiber layer of the base and the stud fit into an existing hole in the base. I didn’t road test it because of inclement weather, but I kicked her over in the garage and the ammeter was showing charge with and without the headlight on. All good. Thanks Ian and Ron for the helpful photos.
I have used the AO regulator which with some cutting of the base will fit inside an MCR 1
Instead of soldering the tags - I have used spade connectors on the wires which after you clean up the terminals - slip over & make good form contact with the terminals
The trouble with the AO (Al Osborne) regulators as several of us with coil ignition bikes have found to our cost, is that your battery volts don't have to drop very much before the regulator wont cut in until you restore the charge with an independent battery charger. The DVR2 will keep working down to very low battery levels. I'd say they are the very best on the market. Ron
OK Barry, I'll have my Venison steak medium please!! Ron
You’ll have to settle for corn fed Mallard Ron. My buddy and I got a 14 bird limit in 1.5 hours in Idaho this morning. Followed by 3 hours of cleaning and packaging.
I have one of the old Sean Hawker Dynotec units. It mounts very neatly and as per John, I have wired using mini-Lucars onto the existing solder tags. No need to cut any base insulator although it did call for drilling a couple of holes in the base.
I’ll take her for a road test later today when it warms up a little. Was 22 degrees Fahrenheit this morning. Then I’ll probably put her to bed for the winter.
Thanks again for the guidance.
I wouldn't mind seeing a picture of the inside Barry. I felt sure I had to cut the fibre board base to make mine fit? Unfortunately I sold that bike and can't check now and the pictures aren't that clear.
Thanks Ron and Rick. I had another regulator that came in a small box of extra parts that came with the bike. It has the parts that you mentioned. I’ll install tomorrow. After starting it yesterday and the ammeter showing charge, on short road test today the ammeter shows 0 and discharge with the headlight on so I may have other issues.
Barry does it show a charge when you turn the lamps off? If you have the correct 40W dynamo (picture please) It might be that your bulbs add up to more wattage than an old worn dynamo can produce.
The original headlamp bulb was something like 25W whereas the modern equivalent are 35W, add in your 5W tail lamp bulb and you are pushing the limits.
For daylight running I usually run with bright LED pilot lights and try not to ever venture out after dark:scream: Ron
remove the D&F wires, put two temporary wires in their place and connect them together and use these as your live feed to a high value bulb (12v is best) earth the bulb to the dynamo or thereabouts and start the bike up. The bulb should light up and glow brighter as you rev the engine. A good dynamo can blow a 6V bulb, hence the 12V suggestion.
Also you should be wired Negative earth with a neg earth DVR2. You might have lost polarity to your dynamo which takes just seconds to fix. Ron
Before connecting any electronic regulator to the system you should first check that the wiring circuit is functioning correctly without short circuits using a charged battery...Next you should check the output from the dynamo and its polarity to ensure it is correct for the polarity of the regulator you have...
I generally check output with a multi meter so that you know the voltage you are actually producing.....If output is OK, polarity is correct and the circuit is good, then connect the regulator...NOT BEFORE!.....If you connect an electronic regulator to an output of the wrong polarity it will usually 'blow' instantly and that will be the end of it....
Don't forget that when the battery is fully charged the system will not produce any current...It responds to a drop in battery voltage when the load of the lights reduces the battery voltage to a given level. The regulator then 'cuts in' the dynamo output until the system voltage is rebalanced and then 'cuts out' again...Ian
Sorry gentlemen. I had to drive up to Washington state to pick up a bike and it took all day to get up there and back. I’ll try your suggestions and report back. I have several generator vintage Harleys and the manual states that the generator should be polarized every time the battery is disconnected. This is done with a short jumper at the regulator. Not sure if this is the case here.
I think the Harley's run a 3 brush generator system with a cut out instead of a regulator. Just follow the Lucas instructions. The DVR2's are more robust that others, so hopefully no damage is done.
And yes you have the correct period 40W dynamo. Ron
I tried both the 12v light bulb and the multi meter and got no output from the dynamo. Manual suggested checking the brushes. I found one that wouldn’t move in the holder. Removed it and dressed the sides. Also, commutator was dark so cleaned it with gas soaked rag as per manual. Put it back together and voila working now. Slightly over 12 o’clock position with headlight on. Not showing charge with light off but I had fully charged the battery so that’s normal per Ian. Weather not permitting road test but hopefully, that will happen before the snow flies. The advice from you both is greatly appreciated. No stranger to wrenching on bikes but this one is a different animal altogether.
Thanks again.