I'm using this one for my bikes, every full turn is one millimeter down, and the zero collar can be turned, so it's in the right spot to read it. Not sure where it came from, but was something commercial from the 50's.

Something similar can be made for BSA's ofcourse.

Nortons have a bigger timing hole, and I can use it with an adapter (18 to 14mm.)

Works for me, even with a slanted plug hole like a Matchless.



Cheers,

Lex

email (option): welbike@welbi**.net

The simple and nice thing about that tool I have is, I set it in my head and marked the plunger at TDC and 7/16" BTDC. It can now be used on any M20/21 as you just adjust the height with the outer hollow bolt:+1: Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

['Works for me, even with a slanted plug hole like a Matchless...']

Often wondered about that...Linear (vertical) movement converted to an angular movement won't be the same...I couldn't calculate the difference (and it would be dependant on the plug angle) but it would be interesting to put a degree disc and clock gauge on it to work it out as there will be an error...It's an interesting tool, I've never seen one from the period, only the cheapo modern version...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Ah, Ian, you know how I think about this, different petrol, etc. etc. the old values from the manuals are just a rough guide, I usually time it a bit too advanced, and then set the lever on the bars to where it sounds and feels best.

The Matchless piston is also domed, so don't think it makes much difference, but it can be calculated, if I was so inclined, I could probably do it, but after 10k (hard ridden) miles without troubles, since a rebuild 7-8 years ago, I believe it's OK.

Cheers,

Lex

PS, the Eldi brand of timer is Dutch, and they still sell them!! 90 euro's though.

email (option): welbike@welbi**.net

In common with a lot oc things like compresion tests you find out what works with your tools and then use those values .
Piston drop is such a coarse way to set ignition timing inthe first place because each mm of drop is a different number of degrees
I gave up using piston drop decades ago .

What is your method Trev? Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

The method used to set the ignition is down to the individual at the end of the day....

Setting accurately by the the original method, namely setting the piston at 7/16" BTDC in the case of an M20, will at least replicate the original method used by the manufacturer and will result in the engine running as intended. This assumes no change to the fuel of course and everything else being set within the original parameters (carb settings, engine condition etc.) .....

The question of whether the original settings/plug grade are right or should be altered to suit changes to fuel burn characteristics is an interesting one and it may well be that a change would be desirable...Fuels have certainly changed...

So, assuming a change is to be made, let's say to 3/8" BTDC how will the results of that change to the power/torque curves be measured?...
I'm afraid 'tuning by the seat of the pants' is a woefully inadequate method to determine any changes unless they are substantial....Perceptions of how well the bike is running are largely subjective as the brain is not an accurate engine measuring instrument. For a crude example, take away the baffles in the exhaust and many people will report an increase in performance, when in most cases the opposite would be true...Louder doesn't mean faster...

The only accurate way to determine relatvely small changes to engine performance is to put the bike on a dyno and do comparative tests using different settings/rev points etc.. The results will be printed out for examination and comparison...If changes aren't accurately measured how can the benefits/disadvantages be proven?.. and if they are not you are just 'shooting in the dark'....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I do like a well typed post Ian.

Though I guess in reality with modern fuels most engines of the period would stand a little more advance.
But back on topic I think the calibrated bolt method is perfect for "in field" check.
Though on the bench an angular check would be better.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

For static timing a disc printed specifically for each bike & a clamp on pointer
Disc has a magnet glued to it so your cush nut needs to be flat
use piston stop to locate tdc then rotate crank using a long spannar on the crank shaft nut on the other side.
Manual ignitions on side valves are not as fussy as auto advancs on OHV.s

Had my DVLA inspection this afternoon, a dozen photos taken and that was about it.
Now to wait and see what happens.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

🤞

email (option): wd.register@gmail.com

It's been a while, with a few fairy tales to keep me nervous.
Finally I have a V5C with a six figure registration number.
So white numbers on a black background I guess.
Just too busy at work at the moment and a building that needs a roof on before winters sets in.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

I got my correct stencil from https://classictransfers.co.uk/ They also have the correct water slide tank transfers(cream)
"Axholme signs" Also have the number plate stencils which is where my RN tanks stencils came from. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Back to the saddle
My M20 lives outside , usually under a cover but some times the rain gets to it and soaks into the seat cover.
On mine there was a piece of pressed felt between the cover & the springs that was forever becoming saturated and rusting the springs.
Sollution was some pallet wrapping so no more rust
The springs are by now ( 30 years of riding ) now quite sad, I really should replace them but to help things along I cut a piece of HDPE from the sides of a 25L chemical drum to fit on top of the springs which has made a big difference to the "Lack" of comfort when I have been caught out or have just been to lazy to lift the bum off the seat when going over potholes .
Just a thought
A couple of others with spring saddles have now done the same & all agree it works better and prevents the springs compressing groves in the padding .

All my pictures have been removed, how can I bring them back?

They will open if you open them in a new tab.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

I can see all your pictures Mark!

email (option): wd.register@gmail.com

The pictures all opened for me, but were a bit slow downloading? Ron

PS I'm not sure about IBB as the host that I think most of us use? , but the previous host (who stopped being free) If you deleted a picture from your albums, it would also disappear from the forum.

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

My pictures have links to one of my websites Ron, I thought this was the safe way to do it as I've lost many on other website using their picture posting system.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

Really interesting and involving thread. However I belong to the bodge it and hope persuasion. Rick Partington had rebuilt the motor before I bought the bike and he'd opted for a low cost rebuild [motor aside]. The bloke I bought it from sold it as it wasn't any faster than his 16H.
It had the wrong engine sprocket and I knew the timing was off. He'd set it as per M21. Unfortunately the early type M21. It felt a touch flat and was so I reset it with a bit of wire and it's spot on now. I know a lot of you are perfectionists but one doesn't need to be to run one of these.
I've just had the speedo rebuilt and indicated top speed went from 64 to 81:[best tuning mod I've ever had] before it died again. Hopefully it will all get sorted....

I decided as this bike is well overdue a test ride, I'd ask Anita to hand paint the number plate.
I'm more than happy with it as a first attempt, I can't type what she said when I asked to do the fuel tank!
If I get a chance I'll wire up a brake light for a test ride tomorrow evening.



Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

Have some sympathy for the country boys with slower internet speeds...I have to scroll away for a measurable amount of time to get to the last comment...Time for a new thread!....Ian:yum: ...

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Ian, have you noticed a slider at the right side of your screen? Hold your curser on the slider and move it down the screen.

I'll actually put this in a new thread! Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Mark how did you get the ball rolling with Dvla? I have an original reg that the bike had but long before they went digital and I've no proof of it other than the pressed plates, is it possible to apply for the war time reg or is that not an option?

Tod, without an old buff log book, you have little hope of retention of the number unless the original LVLA records survive...but government instructed them to be destroyed in the late 1970s

Do you know which county council issued your original number ? One or two ignored instructions.

Hi Rik

Yes it's 864 BGY so BG being Croydon, London I have emailed a few contacts that point towards the old records in that area but had no responses

Sorry i meant GY

Tod, I was born in Croydon, as the hospital in Purley was full. Three quarters of a century later, I'm still ashamed of it !

Regrettably, the old LCC / GLC were amongst the keenest to pulp records and none survive. You'll have to go the age-related route.

No WD motorcycle had a County Council registration number after September 1939 though, so there is no "correct" way. If you're comfortably off then you could buy a pre-war Middlesex "cherished" number and use that...or fit your plate with magnets and take it off if you think no)one is looking.

Hello Tod,
I took a torturous route with mine.
First I got it MOT'd on the frame number.
I spent too long messing around and combined with a long wait from the BSAOC getting a dating certificate the MOT lapsed.
So I don't know if that helped.
With my DVLA application I sent all the BSAOC info.
After some time I get a date for an inspection to see the bike running!
The inspection consisted of more photographs by a chap admitting to know nothing about bikes.
More weeks pass and I get a registration document for a BSA 500 !!!
Insurance, it's now a 1943 500cc Blue Star!

It does make you wonder.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

I know some people do it anyway, but there is no need for an MOT on an historic vehicle, whether for registration or not. Nor does the vehicle need to be running......Been there many times. Ron:relaxed:

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

This is my issue ron currently my bike isnt at the running stage, i wanted to apply to dvla but this states i need a proof of age which they will accept from bsaoc, i didnt know what the turn around time is for this but if its a while i can get the ball rolling now as i just joined bsaoc for this. Would be nice to ride it by the end of summer

Yes Tod as long as the bike looks fairly complete will do. They never ask to see it running. The inspector (if he's called for) is only there to check the numbers and take some pictures..... The dating letter from the BSAOC or VMCC or MVT is valid for one year. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com