I was experiencing a slight clutch slip and after adjusting and still having the problem persist, I removed the chaincase to investigate as I thought that maybe the cush spring nut had loosened. That nut was tight but I noticed that I could wiggle the whole chainwheel clutch hub assembly. After disassembling the clutch and with the clutch spring nut tight against the clutch center, there is still 1/16 or more play in the chainwheel. The spares book shows the parts that are there so I don't think there is anything missing. Am I missing something or is this normal? Thanks in advance for any guidance.
Barry

If anything is going to come loose? It is usually sleeve nut #62. Which holds the clutch to the mainshaft. However it will usually have the opposite effect of clutch slip. It will progressively get more difficult to engage the gears as the basket moves away from the gearbox which will effectively shorten the push rod.

There is usually some rock to the basket which gets worse as the 1/4 x 1/4 rollers and/or the races wear.

Contamination from oil on the plates is another factor.

Since you have the cover off, maybe time to strip the clutch for proper inspection. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

The rocking of the chainwheel is probably wear of the rollers and/or roller tracks on the clutch sleeve and the roller track in the clutch basket...Most M20s are running with a little (or a lot) of this play....It shouldn't make the clutch slip...However, if there is any vertical play in the mainshaft you have a gearbox bearing/sleeve gear bushes problem...Again, that wouldn't make your clutch slip...

Clutch slip is probably caused by contaminated/worn plates or an incorrectly adjusted cable...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks Ron and Ian for replies and sharing your knowledge with a novice M20 owner. I did replace the rollers so the play in the chainwheel must be a worn roller race. There was a slight bit of oil on the edges of the clutch discs that got through the exceeding thin gasket of the clutch cover. When I got the bike, the discs were oil soaked and the cover had a lot of sealer applied that obviously didn't prevent oil seepage. I bought new discs but the they were too thick which resulted in the clutch rod not being long enough. I'm going to make my own gasket out of cork and use the new discs and leave one disc and steel out and see if that solves the problem. Thanks as always for your help.
Barry

The thicker pattern plates are a pain...However, leaving one out and one steel plate out will leave you with a plate stack the same hieght as a full original set, so you should be able to set up OK....Check out the Technical Section for a full article on the clutch...Under the heading 'Clutch Problems' I think...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I just use sealant between the chainwheel & clutch cover, haven't had a failure. I make sure everything's clean first. Would oil soak through the cork?

I coated both sides of the cork gasket with silicone and installed the cover. Let it cure overnight. Clutch seems to be working on rear stand. I will button it up today and road test. Thanks for replies.
Barry

Quick update. Buttoned the chaincase up and went for short (5 mile) road test yesterday being July 4th and other obligations. No clutch slip or drag. Will have to see if new gasket and sealer keeps oil out of the clutch. Bike wet sumps like crazy. Have new ball and spring ordered but coming from Australia so could be a while. Stay tuned.
Barry

A tip! when you take the old ball and spring out, squirt out any crud with WD40 and an artist's brush and then blow it out with an air line. Put the new 1/4" ball in place and give it a gentle but sharp tap with a skinny drift to create a decent seat. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks for the tip Ron. Will do. I have several old Harleys that are notorious for sumping but perhaps I’ve been a fortunate as none of them sump. This bike sumps overnight. Hopefully, the new ball and spring will solve the problem as it is very annoying.
Barry