Hello ,
My rear stand lugs on 1939 WM20 are slightly elongated through wear ..what is the safest method of repairing these please ? Thank You in advance ,Steve..

email (option): s.foster11@blueyonder.co.uk

I rebuild mine with Nickle Bronze Stephen.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

Thank You Mark ,
Do You use T.I.G and no pre-post heat please ?

email (option): s.foster11@blueyonder.co.uk

I did mine with oxy-acetylene fitted with flux in the flame.
Not that I have ever tried it I think TIG brazing might be worth a try as it is hard the clean the casting for gas brazing.
The quicker freezing might also make it more controllable.

Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

Thank You Mark .

email (option): s.foster11@blueyonder.co.uk

Henk passed these pictures to me some years ago. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Most that I have done ( all 5 of them )were built up with steel wire using a Dillon ( Henrob) oxy gun.
I do a small dab on the side first to check if it is cast iron or forged steel
If it is cast iron then the steel will not take and you have to use bronze

I cut horizontally under the slightly wider part where the wheel spindle fits and then vertically downwards behind the position of the pivot..I then made a complete piece that included the pivot hole and tig welded the resulting plate into place (on each side)...The idea of approaching the job this way was to produce a longer weld that spread the loads over a wider area....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Think the, often, large wear of these holes and pins is mainly due to the bouncing of the rearstand while riding. The RHS, where the spring is located is often much more worn than the other side, the force of the spring seems to increases the wear.

Have thought about greasenipples on the bolts but not tried yet. Or a clip on the mudguard to stop the bouncing.

Br, Michiel

Here's a [very poor] initial sketch I made of a possible modification to the M20 rear stand so that the pivot(s) are in the stand legs rather than the frame....This could be more durable as there would be more pivoting area and the loads would be spread more...Also, repairs would be to the stand and not the frame...The stand bolts would be screwed into the frame up to the shoulder and locked in place by the sleeve nut at the opposite end...Something to consider if a full repair is needed....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thank You all for the great suggestions .
I especially like Ians idea of having the pivot in the stand .
I may well try this .
The holes are not very elongated on My M20 and I had thought of plug welding by MIG then derssing and redrilling but wasnt sure of the material ?

email (option): s.foster11@blueyonder.co.uk

A bit of mild steel tig welded in would do it...You may have to open up the original holes a little as the plug has to be of a large enough diameter to carry a 5/16" thread with some remaining wall thickness....That may not be the case but off the top of my head I can't remember the diameter of the shank on the original stand bolts....:relaxed: Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thank You Ian ,
My Friend is a welding engineer and I am going to seek his advice regarding the material .
If He thinks it is safe to do so I will plug weld the holes with MIG on spray setting which will minimise heat input .
I will make a setup jig with the dimensions and position of holes before I do anything else .
That said I like Your idea of having the stand working as a bearing surface so may even try this ?
will make My mind up when I find out the weldability of the lugs .

email (option): s.foster11@blueyonder.co.uk

Thank You Ron ,
From these I will make the setup jig .

email (option): s.foster11@blueyonder.co.uk

Thank You Trevor ,
If they are forged steel will using the MIG welding process be acceptable please ?

email (option): s.foster11@blueyonder.co.uk

Some are forged & some are cast
Lots of arguement about that o here which is why you put a dab on some where not important
If it does not take then you have cast malleable iron in which case it is Marks method
You do not want it to crack through because it was cast .

I Tig welded the rear frame lugs that take the rear wheel and stand without any problems....I've also tig welded other frame parts, footrests, S.arm fork yokes and rear brake levers over the years with the same results...(all BSA components)
I don't profess to be an expert on the subject of welding but I have the services of two coded welders when I need work done...In the past (my youth) I didn't really think about it very much, after that time I've asked the opinions of people who know more about it and to date have had good results...
I have to add some brackets to an all bronze welded lightweight Wasp Gold Star frame at some point in the near future and the correct method for that is my current concern...Cock ups are not an option as the frame cost me a lot of hard earned cash!!....:grimacing: Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com