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The WD Motorcycle forum
Neil when you get your spring posts and springs set up to your required height. Set the saddle level with the springs upright and then make up two stout plates (Say 1" x 1/8") that you can bolt/weld to the nose of the frame which arrive at the front mounting.
Re my crank cases. When I built the engine some years ago, I grit blasted them with medium aluminum oxide grit and then gave them a rub over with fine wire wool to get a dull sheen. Ever since I just clean them now and then with a paint brush and white spirit. :+1: Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
As my M20 had been a daily ride from 1949 through to 1984, The saddle nose mount was trashed and worn conical at each end
So I drilled ( not easy ) then reamed ( even harder ) the hole true ( well better than it was anyway )
Then I made up 2 steel top hat bushes by welding high tensile washers to some tube
These were trimmed in the middle so when inserted from each side & done up tight there was around 0.010" clearence in total between the bush &the frame lug.
If I do it again I will shoot for 1/2 that or go thicker & fit some friction washers not sure yet
The upshot of this ismy saddle can only move in a single plane arc up & down so it does not slew from side to side like a jelly on a plate.
This makes the bike feel a lot better when you ride as your backside is not going side to side
Bushes have a 0.001" running clearance inside the frame which seems to be enough to get grease through
When you set up the saddle height , have the bike sitting on its wheels, not the stand as I did initally .
Sit on the bike and keep on adjusing the pillars so that the saddle is level or tipped slightly up with you sitting on it
If you don't then the seat will slop backwards when you are riding so you will be sliding off all the time .
Even worse is the rear rail that the pillow springs anchor to will be consistantly digging into your rear end , definately not comfortable as I fund out .
Some where in this sites vast archive is instructions for alternative spring mounting using wire so the springs anchor to the top edge of the rail rather than the bottom.
Down side of doing this is there is nothing to hold the felt in place .
I went one further and cut a plate out of a 3 litre milk bottle to sit directly over the springs then wrapped the felt in heat shrink wrap ( used on pallets ) so the felt no longer gets soaking wet then rusts out the pillow springs .
"Even worse is the rear rail that the pillow springs anchor to will be consistantly digging into your rear end , definately not comfortable as I fund out ."
This is something I've been looking with my Czech seat Trevor. To my mind there should be some kind of padding under the cover. Like a compressed sheet of Coir about 1/2" (12.7mm) thick.
Whilst on the subject of seats, does any have the dimensions for the rear seat mountings. I guess the thread size is 5/16" Cycle. Is the hex size 0.600"? (15.24mm)
Then we have springs, what shape should they be?
BTW Neil,
We have in stock the same seat as you got from Drags,
https://pesltd.uk/?product=78-0301&ptno=78-0301
Mark
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com
My M33 has a single saddle, with which I had problems with the rear rail causing discomfort. I removed the cover and fitted a piece of pipe lagging over it and refitted the cover. It doesn't show but takes the pain away.
email (option): wd.register@gmail.com
Thanks Jan,
If I can't find anything local, I'll be in touch.
Mark
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com
email (option): optimar@me.com
Sorry Andrew, no stock. I even checked with our supplier, and they don't have stock either.
Mark
email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com