So here I am tinkering still as this bike slowly comes together.



A problem here, a niggle there and I think I am winning. Silly me.

Time to wear the sins of the father.

After struggling with the front axle and still not sure what to do with that, I decided to try adding the brake cable and of course, issues.

Either the cable is too long or my brake actuating arm is different. Seems I can't adjust the arm to a different position and will need to get a shorter cable. There is only so much adjustment in the cable and I have used it all.


If it sat in the same position as the one in the factory image I would be fine on cable length.


Not to be deterred, I thought I would try something else to tinker on.

So having sorted the pillion foot rest issue successfully and hit a hurdle with the front brake I decided to put the rear wheel on the bike, even though I am waiting on the correct axle, to set the bike properly horizontal so I can tinker on the saddle spring issue and get the measurement for the correct size springs.

Sorted and ordered. :sunglasses:

Tinker on some more.. oh dear. :disappointed:

Let's put the rear stand on the bike, I've got all the parts, its an easy quick job and make the bike look like I am progressing.

Ok now, lets look at some images on my phone to see what goes where. Um.. er.. I don't have that part on my frame.

It seems a previous owner of the rear frame, at some point in the past 80 years, decided they didn't need the centre stand and decided to cut that part of the frame off! WTAF.




So now I need to buy some plate, cut to shape, drill and thread the mounting holes, get them welded into place professionally and repaint the rear frame.

We have a phrase here in Australia "Not Happy .. Jan!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2akt3P8ltLM&ab_channel=jetski314159

Trouble is, the WDG3L build experts are in Normandy right now! Certainly your brake arm IS in the wrong position - does it not sit on a splined shaft you can adjust to get it as per factory photo? Wheel offset - as long as the assembly is correct, and it is still offset too much one way, tweak the spokes to get the hub offset correct.

Hi Alun
Sorry to read of your problems. It's hard to get your head around some of the things that happen to bikes during their lives.
The reason for posting is that I've got the same type of hydraulic lift as you. What do you think of it? I'm more or less happy with mine but it's a bit rough around the edges.I wish it were wider so you can leave a bike on the sidestand, I can't get my Sportster on it.

The brake lever is not on a spline but 6 sided shaft, so it is 80 degree increments. To rotate it clockwise it is ends up pointing directly down.

It has brand new brake pads in it and the adjustment ends, if I can call them that, that sit on the end of the brake shoes are set to the lowest setting. Any higher and I suspect I would have the brakes engaging without application of the lever.

I suspect the wheel is off to one side due to the brake plate locking nut that I have, it takes up so much room it has also reduced the amount of threads available for the end nut.

Bob

It serves it's purpose. I've only just used it for the mounting of the forks onto the frame and putting the wheels on. It will stay there until after I do the mudguards and tank, and then come off and roll into the other shed whilst I work on the engine and gearbox rebuilds.

It is not actually my lift, but my friends and he uses it for his monster 2021 Indian.

Alun, just had a look at my wheel and that brings back my memory of having pretty much the same issues as you with the angle of dangle on the brake arm. Mine sits at rest at 90 degrees rather than the acute angle it should be but I could find no way to change that, although my brake cable just fits. In fact, the brake arm actually fouled the fork leg end cap, so I had to reduce its profile to allow enough movement to apply the brake properly! A bodge, really, but it works. As I said, the real build experts are probably off line and I am sure John Tinley and Ron Pier could provide good advice on all your issues. The only other thing I can suggest is (if not already checked) that while the wheel is off and on, you get the drum checked for ovality - easy job to get it skimmed on the wheel if not. My wheel and fork assembly is not wholly standard as it was made up by a trials chap to improve handling! Of course, if not already a member, the AMOC would be a big help via their club forum - lots of WDG3L experts on there.

Hi Alan,
Unless my eyes deceive me, it appears that your front brake actuating arm is different or possibly bent. I will try and post a photo of one of mine.

email (option): peter.h.wright@btinterner.com

FerG3

Yes I am a member at AMOC, though the forum over there seems pretty quiet compared to here.

Alun

Peter

These are the two plates I have and the arms that were on them when I got them.



The top one is fitted with part number 38-12-B30 (Lever, for rear brake shoe expander)
The bottom one is fitted with number 40-G12M-B65 (Lever, for front brake shoe expander)


So as best as I can tell, they are correct and on the correct brake plate.

Alun

Hi Alan,

Here's a picture of my front brake actuating arm. Your brake plate looks right but I would say that your actuating arm is bent.

https://ibb.co/0X1NFjg

email (option): peter.h.wright@btinterner.com

Alun,

Another photo

https://ibb.co/6rjcKzB

email (option): peter.h.wright@btinterner.com

Peter

I see that mine is different than yours, and now I look again at the parts image. I don't think mine is actually bent, but rather a different model. Looks like I will be looking for another lever.

Thank you

Alun

Rotate the front brake shoe cam 180 degrees and then put the arm back on. You may be OK then.

Bruce

As you know that cam is a simply vertical cam. When I first noticed this issue I considered that exact option, but when I looked at the cam I could not see any difference.

But at this point I have nothing to lose and will give that a go and see what happens. Luckily it is not a big job to do that.

Cheers

Al

That front brake arm is wrong, should more less be straight, regards to the spacing behind the front brake plate, on the threaded side there’s a a thin adjusting nut with thin washer behind, brake plate then a shouldered type nut that locks the brake place in place. Also front wheel bearings are fitted inside out. I don’t spoes this bike ended up in Burma india? As I’ve restored many G3Ls over the years and the most problematic g3l I’ve ever done came from Burma.
you will get there

Barry

Barry

I have no idea where this bike has been over the past 81 years. I had it shipped from Europe as a basket case. Wheels were already assembled and were simply removed from a previous bike.

A bit confused on your comment "Also front wheel bearings are fitted inside out." Care to elaborate?

Cheers

Al

Bruce

The cam is symmetrical in relation to the hexagonal shaft. I rotated it 180 degrees and it is the same.

What I did try was to flip the actual lever, which hasn't seemed to help either, but I think I will hunt down a proper straight lever.

Before

After