the G3WO tank is much longer than a G3L tank and will have 3 extra holes where the seat recess is for a water deflector, if not the its a post war G3L tank.
early G3L's had just the M badges with a more flatter top tank and have slightly different indents on the bottom
later tanks or mid war tanks are more rounded with no badge or grip holes,
a pre 1949 post war tank can be used with the knee grip and badge holes filled in unless you want to keep the badge
Thanks for that. A quick question regarding the mounting holes underneath, do they need to be exactly in the centre of the mounts on the frame? I've noticed that they are a little off centre on mine.
I also bought a repro tank from India as a back up which is absolutely woeful. Firstly the underside recesses are the mirror image of what it is on my other tank and when you align it to the frame mounts it is completely crooked.
over time the mounting brackets on the frame can get bent or repaired, as long as you get all four bolts with rubbers on it should be ok, if you got room on the mounts you can always move the tank about slightly, if not just leave it. ive never delt with an indian made tank so im not sure what there like.
Al, it might be a bit more complicated than the drawings on Simons website, the tank you have was the best one I had to go with the project, I have had a similar tank since then, but nobody can tell me what year it is, it's certainly not a G3WO tank, as I would have known. Before sandblasting, the tank was army green, I do remember that.
Never ever buy Indian tanks, mudguards are not too bad, but all need work.
Barry is right about the mounting tabs, the holes are bigger than the threaded ones in the tank for a reason.