Ron's correct...The upper bearing won't fit in the position of the lower one and as such they don't need to be marked...

At the moment I am still unable to receive or send any e mails so will have to get back to you later..There was a system fault (not in my computer) that may or may not have been resolved but it's still not working at my end after 5 or 6 days...Hopefully my computer is going to my local shop to have an upgrade in the near future and I'll find out what's going on then...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Ian, email sent
Baz

email (option): binnawan@iinet.net.au

Pretty obvious isn't it !
I didn't get past the instructions that said bearings are marked.
Still, if we all knew everything we wouldn't need a website!

email (option): binnawan@iinet.net.au

As Ron mentions there are problems using the ball race bearings as supplied.
Rather than tapping the steering stem into place with a soft hammer, pressing it into place might be a better idea.
I could feel slight indents in the bearings after assembly.
Once the top yoke is tightened down the steering locks.
A small washer is required to fit over the inner race to lift the yoke off the outer.
For longer life a cup washer would be a good idea to keep rain out of the bearing.



Mark

email (option): pes.sales@btconnect.com

When I replaced my Head stock races I noticed a bit of a design fault , not sure how BSA expected the grease to reach the top bearings, as the grease nipple is below the bearings , you would need to fill the 2 frame tubes with grease first !
As the ends that join the head stock are not capped off , don't think much grease would get on the bottom bearing , well not under pressure!
I capped the Tube's off , and now my bearings will get grease , under pressure !

Did the same with 1/2 a beer can with 2 holes cut to fit over the grease nipples then a single large O ring to hold it out
Now 1/2 a stroke on either nipple has grease extruding from both bearings .

['Once the top yoke is tightened down the steering locks.
A small washer is required to fit over the inner race to lift the yoke off the outer.
For longer life a cup washer would be a good idea to keep rain out of the bearing...']

A long while back I wrote a new set of (comprehensive) fitting instructions that I supply with these bearing kits...The kits were originally provided for swinging arm models only, which have a different set up and thus various additional details must be attended to when fitting to girder fork models...These are all covered in the instructions...
The original dust cover for the cups and cones can be employed with the sealed bearings to provide additional protection for the upper bearing...
Obviously the top nut on the steering stem cannot be fully tightened down unless a tube of suitable length is fitted between the bearings to prevent excessive axial loads...Without a tube the top yoke should just be pressed firmly against the bearing (and dust cover) by hand and then the yoke pinch bolt fully tightened...Then fit the top nut and just nip it down very lightly onto the yoke...A dab of threadlock applied to the thread will prevent loosening...Next fit the damper assembly where applicable....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com