Hi all, Im a newbie to the WM20 but at 58 been on bikes since the 70s. Im looking at an unrestored running/rideable bike tomorrow with a bunch of spares with it, new tank and more. Any problem areas you can give me a heads up on. looking at paying around 7400 Australian $. The M20 was my Dads first bike in about 1947, he sold it for a Royal Enfield Silver Bullet which he regretted and ended up with a WLA for many years.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
email (option): kurandaclarkes@bigpond,com
I'd concern myself with the bike's overall condition. If the bike looks straight & runs well it can be kept in this condition as vital parts are available. They're fairly maintenance intensive but I reckon you'd know that from your Dad's bikes. Don't know about prices, sorry. I'd look at the electrics, not because they're unreliable but because repairs there can be pricey & need someone who knows their stuff.
Have a good long (theatrical) look at the girder and it's links, if they are worn the links can be bought and bushes replaced by anyone half decent with a tool box. But it is a good bargaining point as "the forks need refurbishing" can sound more expensive than it really is. :wink:
Apart from that if it does start and the bulbs get brighter with a blip of the throttle then two of most expensive/time consuming problems are not there (magdyno rebuild).
Good luck, I am sure other will add other points/opinions!!
Scott
If your of average weight (what is that exactly?:laughing: ) and you turn the engine over slowly using the kick start until it comes onto compression, a good engine will just about support your weight on the kick start before it turns over...
If it has low compression and won't take your weight at all it may need top end work (valves/valve seats/piston/bore)...
Look for blue smoke when running and/or oil blowing from the crank case breather pipe as an indicator of possible bore wear...Ride the bike if you can to determine the general performance of the brakes, the clutch and the gearbox...Check that the clutch is correctly adjusted first as that can have quite an effect on gearbox operation...When the handlebar lever is pulled fully in the clutch operating arm on the outside of the box should be vertical or very close to it...
Check the wheel bearings for smooth rotation and excessive play at the rim..There should be a just perceptible movement from side to side at the rim....To check the front you'll have to jack or block up the front of the bike...While you're there you can check the steering head bearings for wear/adjustment...Fully tighten the fork side damper to stop the forks moving and then test for free play as you would on a tele fork equipped bike...Once that's done (if OK), you can slacken the side damper again and check for wear in the fork links and pins...Check the wheels for 'true running' when you spin them and check for loose or broken spokes...Check rear chain and sprocket condition...Check control cable condition and operation..A well maintained bike will have good, lubricated cables that are properly adjusted....Check the wear/condition of the rear stand/spring and pivot bolts...
Check the carb slide for excessive wear...You can do this simply by putting you finger into the carb opening and feeling for 'rattle'...Look at the overall condition of the bike, paintwork, the condition of the saddles, horn, brakelight and lights operation and the reading on the ammeter when running to ensure it is charging and connected correctly... Also check the presence of the correct parts for the year etc...
All of the above will cost money to rectify if faulty and all can be pointed out to the seller during the bargaining process...Don't be afraid to spend your time looking over the bike and don't be afraid to comment...I usually ask the seller to leave me to look over it...Also, when you arrange your viewing time ask the seller to ensure the bike is not started (is cold) before you arrive...Starting a pre warmed up bike can often mask underlying starting problems...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Try to run the engine or ride the bike for long enough to get properly hot. Check if it has a solid tickover when hot. Then stop it and restart it after a minute or so. If it ticks over and restarts easily then the magneto is probably OK. Also, when the engine is running, open the oil tank cap and make sure that oil is bubbling out of the return pipe.
Take a good look, a ride if possible and as many photos as possible and upload them here. You will get plenty of comments on what needs fixing/replacing and the likely cost of those. Some missing/worn parts (magneto, ammeter, speedo) can be very expensive. Being down under you can bet it has racked up quite a few miles probably on rough roads so expect a crank-up rebuild at some point in the future.
email (option): cas.vanderwoude@gmail.com
Having bought and restored many old bikes over the years, the biggest issue is the bodger who owned the bike at one time. During the 1950's to 1970's when many old British bikes were worthless, fixing them with only a screw driver and a hammer was normal.
Beating the ends of the crankshaft with a hammer to get it out of the crank cases, then the same hammer is used to remove the piston pin and bending the connecting rod are all the fun things you will need to fix.
If the same bodger overhauled the magdyno, even more problems to fix.
If the bike runs and no bad noises, these are good signs. If the owner will allow it, take off the valve tappet cover and see how clean it is in there. If lots of oil sludge is seen its probably everywhere in the engine. You can probably be certain the carburetor is worn out.
If the owner says the engine and gearbox were just rebuilt, don't buy the bike. People who fix problems on a bike they are now trying to sell are to be avoided as they did the repairs spending as little as possible.
I could write a book on the horrors I have found in "just restored", "engine just overhauled" and "was attended to by a professional mechanic" or the "bike has never been touched".
The good news is they made so many M20's that spares are still available.
Anytime I buy a old bike today, I expect it to have problems. I have a 1929 AJS I am working on currently. The bike was in New Zealand and the owner assured me it ran perfectly and was un-restored and all original. When I got the bike to the USA and attempted to start it the engine was locked solid and had been run with no oil in it (there was however some water in the crank case). Also second gear was missing in the gearbox and many more problems.
A question, are un-restored M20's really selling for this much? The price of $7400 AUS seems high. I bought mine in good mechanical condition (also un-restored) for $1800. I put thousands of miles on it before taking it apart to fix all the oil leaks.
Yep,
That is around the market rate now days.
I have just bumped up my insurance to $ 15,000 .
As various anniversaries of WW events keep on popping up they have become quite fashionable.
I have seen rusty relecs go for better than $ 10,000 at clearing sales to dealers who sell "garden ornament" industrialania to button pushers who have never done a second on manual labour in their life.
Mate, at that price just grab it !
email (option): binnawan@iinet.net.au
I Did!!
1st thing to sort, oil pouring from primary cover at foot peg, found some solutions on here but its been siliconed on so i'll get it off and see how things look..........
Came with a spare tank, new original headlight assy (Military), complete tool box and other stuff.
email (option): kurandaclarkes@bigpond,com
Well done Russell!...You'll get answers to all of your questions here on the forum...Enjoy your M20...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
That is wet sumping filling up the sump with oil which then passes the along the crankshaft drive shaft and dribbles into the primary.
There is no oil seal around the crank, just a flinger that can only work ( sort of ) when the engine is running.
So first off drain the oil & pull the clutch it will be oil soaked and wash the plates.
Get a new anti syphon spring & ball and fit them to the timing side of the engine before you think of putting more oil in or there is a better than average chance it will all end up in the crankcase again.