Thanks all for your quick reply. I think the ground down socket is the way to go.
I know the bike hasn't been going in about 30 years but it was owned by an engineer who probably had his own fashioned socket.
Thanks Trevor
An engineer wouldn't do that to the main shaft and clutch spring nuts!..:laughing: (though someone has modified the spring nut to adjust the lift of the pressure plate)...Good luck with removing it...
You'll need the correct puller to get the sleeve off the main shaft once you've removed the nut...Hopefully the internal extractor thread in the sleeve is intact...Ian(an engineer)
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! Thanks Bruce Cooper. Send help to get me off the floor.
That's the wrong nut some ham fisted "mechanic" installed. I see the typical
chisel and screwdriver malformations on the spring nut. SO...... Here is a classic
example of being too cheap to buy the proper tools.
Your spring nut has the REME fix to level out the clutch spring. The holes should be
2BA if done in a REME shop.
I have sets of WW tools and for that center nut I just use a 5/16 WW socket.
No big deal. I never grind down a socket as it ruins them. I think there is plenty
of room there for a regular socket.
I did make the castelated tool for the clutch spring nut, and will be doing so again
as soon as my trans continental move is over.
Check the technical section for my book chapter on a clutch rebuild. There are detailed
steps on removal and rebuild. Critics are RAVING about it.
Your comment on the tapped holes in the clutch spring nut is incorrect, the army specified 3BA (not 2BA). I did this mod to my M20 35 years ago and recall having problems finding 3BA screws as it is a relatively odd size. The mod worked well too.
