I've been told BSA slightly changed the design of tank kneepads in the late '40s or so.
Does anyone know what's what about this?

There is this style which is probably post WW2?

Rob

email (option): robmiller11(a)yahoo.co.uk

They changed with the introduction of the swinging arm models in late 1953...I don't think anything before that had a change to the rubbers from the wartime style apart from, possibly, the late plunger models with the more rounded petrol tank...
Try looking for brochure pictures of 1954 plunger B and M Series models to confirm that...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Here is the correct style for WM20's. There are some crap ones on ebay! Jeff Hunter will have correct, quality grips Ron

jeffalanhunter@aol.com

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I've taken Ron's advice & ordered some kneepads from Jeff Hunter.
Now I need some metal backing plates for them. Are the plates the same as for the later pads that followed?

Drags have them listed for B/C/M series 1940-53
https://www.draganfly.co.uk/bsa/bsa/a710--b3133--c101112--m202133/category/957-knee-grips-957

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

No, they aren't the same as the later ones....A relevant point of interest, the retaining screws are 1/4" cycle thread...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi
Should the pads have holes in them to allow their fitment or should they be manipulated over the fixing plate

So many I have seen have holes made in them for the screws to pass through - an easier solution I suppose to fit the plate & the rubber pad in a single action

It’s something I’ll be doing soon but hadn’t given much though to

Br
Jo’b

email (option): jonnyob1@googlemail.com

John the BSA pads are installed the easy way. That is, the plate with screws is fitted inside the pad and the screws are done up through the holes. You can see the screws in the parts book illustration I posted above.

Otherwise, what is the point of the holes? I actually think it would be virtually impossible to fit them any other way! Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron

I might just give it a go but admit placing holes is so much easier although less aesthetically pleasing to the eye

Br
Job

email (option): jonnyob1@googlemail.com

[ 'I actually think it would be virtually impossible to fit them any other way!..']...Like Triumph ones then...:laughing: ....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Yes Ian, I've had fun with them all, Triumph, Enfield, Matchless etc. But Norton and Velo are very easy! They don't have a backing plate. They are solid stiff rubber with a simple screw fixing (one screw for Norton and two for Velo) Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I purchased a couple of sets of knee pads from a bike shop on east coast Australia (I am in the west). They didn't have the holes in them for the screws, but on the inside was a indentation to allow for the screw head. I screwed the retaining plates onto the tank and with the help of some silicon spray was able to get them over the plates. A bit like fitting a tyre. It was then a matter of then pushing and shoving to get them to sit right up against the tank. No holes showing.
I am not sure if originally they came with holes or not, my old ones did but I thought maybe someone did that for the easy was out.
The one I purchased never had any manufacture's details on them but seem good quality and after 2 years still good.

email (option): tknalder@iinet.net.au

Kim if you go back over this thread, you will see that the holes are meant to be there, designed to save you all the trouble that you must have gone through. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Ron, original Norton (and I think Jeff Hunter's) are moulded with a steel plate internally.

They can require 'setting' prior to installation.