ok, NOS oil pump installed and turning nicely but when i heated up the crank pinion to install it it ends up pushing the woodruff key inwards with it, its very tight fit and i think it cools as its being tapped along the shaft and grabs it
its not a normal key like im used to, the "D" shaped ones, this one is a flat bit of steel, no chamfers
is this a BSA part or a bodge job

Also what is the head gasket of choice, the solid copper ones or the ones in the kit from Draganfly

thanks guys

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

Kevin, I've never heated a crank pinion to fit one! I've never heard of it as a usual practice....Maybe it is? and I have had the same scenario. But the key is flat #117 in this illustration. Make sure there are no burs to the edge of the key and some trial and error till it fits properly. I can't remember if some snipe nose pliers can hold the key for starters?

The modern Composite gaskets are rubbish and the general consensus is to fit a solid copper gasket which you can buy from TT John from this site. Jomichael@aol.com

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

The key is an original BSA part and this thin type are known as 'sliver keys' for obvious reasons...
The crank shaft pinion should DEFINITELY NOT be heated to fit it...Depending on how warm you got it the hardened pinion may now be scrap...If it discoloured with heat it should be replaced...

Both the key and pinion should be carefully hand fitted. The method I use is to first fit the pinion to the shaft without the key...If the pinion becomes tight as it is put on by hand remove it and clean up the shaft with a smooth file or emery until the pinion is a close but smooth fit...Do not use anything other than hand pressure to fit it...

Next carefully deburr the edges of the keyway and the key with a needle file and then try to fit the key...If the key won't go in ease the edges of the key with a smooth file until it will fit fully into the keyway along its entire length...Avoid letting the key sit on the part nearest the flywheel where it curves up at the end of the machined keyway..Take your time with fitting the key, removing material as required in small increments...The key should fit fully home into the keyway and be as snug a fit as possible...I usually aim for a fit where a very light tap with a small hammer is required to fit it fully...

Next try to fit the pinion...As the pinion is known to fit on the shaft without the key any tightness will be caused by the key itself...Again ease the sides and/or top face of the key with a smooth file as required until the pinion slides on. Again a snug fit when pushed home by hand is what you are after...There should be no free play of the key from side to side in the pinion keyway but ideally you should be able to remove it by hand with a little effort...The important thing is to BE PATIENT, not to force the parts together and to ensure the fits of the various parts are as described above on completion...Too much haste will result in either excessive clearances or the parts being forced on, neither of which is correct...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks Ian

This all awaits me too in the next few weeks - another good assembly tip

Br
Job

email (option): jonnyob1@googlemail.com

good info thank you, the pinion was hard to remove and is equally hard to fit, i just warmed in 10 mins in a toaster oven so its fine but i see i will have a bit of fettling to do as there is no way its going back on as is, ill have to figure out how to remove some from the pinion as i dont want to sand down the crank. the keyway fits in the groove nicely

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

Some strip emery can work wonders to relieve a tight fit. I think it will be a lot easier to do the crank end than the bore of the pinion. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

At least you will find out whether the pinion is still hard...Hopefully it is.

Frankly though, I agree with Ron, the crank is the one to look at. It will be difficult to remove anything from the bore of the pinion as it's hardened..The crank isn't and it's easier to see the marks caused by the pinion contacting the high spots on the crank..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

good advice as always, much appreciated and your forum is invaluable as is the experience and time you take to help others, a donation to the site has been forwarded

cheers
Kevin

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

well a couple of hours later and some cramped up fingers the pinion slides on the shaft, that would have been so much easier when the crank was out of the engine

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca