I have just started a WM20 build, beginning with just a frame. (I know! It's a long term project.) I'm curious about the quality of Indian repro mudguards, tanks and toolboxes. Does anyone rate any of these products positively?
email (option): cmmacd@hotmail.co.uk
There are hundreds of tinsmiths of varying abilities who make reproduction parts in India
Some are excellent and some are trash
Unless you know some one who is a native of India who can speak directly to the makers then it is a luckydip.
Bought from a local shop you have grounds to complain & even get a refund if it does not fit
Bought from ebay or made in India then it is tough luck Charlie.
emember the ols addage
He who buys cheap pays twice
email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au
I don't rate these India-made products positively, I'm sad to say, and I learned the hard way.
Here is my experience, for what it's worth, from a variety of India-based sellers.
The parts may look alright, and they may even be close to what is required, but there is a tendency for them to be made sloppily and not to fit properly. This results in plenty of extra hours of trying to make them fit, and then only succeeding in gaining an approximate fit. I could tell a long sad tale of a rear mudguard at this point, but I don't want to bore you. Since it's not possible to measure accurately when buying on line, and since it takes weeks for the parts to arrive, by the time you have them in hand and ready to fit the 'return' period has usual elapsed. So you have not much in the way of recourse.
A photograph may be worth a thousand words, but a photograph can also hide any number of errors.
It's a pity to have to write this, as I'm sure there are some very good makers of parts who are based in India. I just don't happen to have run across them.
Best wishes,
Allan
email (option): allanmatchless@yahoo.com
For a stress free life and a good deal the best thing is to avoid Indian manufactured pars if you can...They can be and frequently are, inaccurately made and there doesn't seem to be much action in the quality control department...Depending on the part in question correct material specifications and any heat treatment processes may well have not been used to ensure parts are produced that are fit for use...
My experience of the mudguards (for M20s) are that they don't fit, with even the basic radii being incorrect apart from other dimensional faults...The M20 petrol tanks, however, seem to be OK...I've had at least 4 of those through my hands and they fitted with very minor or no work, didn't leak and did the job OK...
Redress for the supply of faulty parts is another aspect that it's best not to get into...
There are always exceptions, but on the whole I would say it's a lottery as to whether you get a serviceable part...
As Dirty Harry said...'So, do ya feel lucky?...Well do ya?'...:laughing: Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I have an India made 8" headlight and it is pretty good quality and rather cheap. I only use the shell and use original parts to complete it again, all original parts fit nicely on the India shell.
Henk
email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl
That's exactly what I did for my 5SW Henk. I think the complete Indian headlamp was 80 quid (free delivery) but then I fitted it out with all other proper parts.
Ron:relaxed:
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
I must have struck lucky when I bought my tank and mudguard ? I was in no rush for the parts so the delivery time wasn’t a factor for me (they both arrived in two and a half weeks).the build quality seems very good as far as I can see and they both fitted with just a little tweaking.One thing that I found a little odd was the fact I had to pay import duty on the mud guard but not the tank ?.Anyway like I said I’m very happy with both,fingers crossed it stays that way 😀
email (option): Mark.hume35@googlemail.com
I think they must have the original mould for these headlight, I've bought a couple and even the 6" blackout mask is exactly the same. I was offered an original WD light and when I compared the two, there was no difference. I saved my money and kept the repro.
The Norton front mudguard never has the "V" shape right but are good and solid. The rear ones are much more sturdy than the original and after buying an original set, I have used the original front, but the repro rear as it held the back end a lot firmer than the thinner original. As I'm usually two up on the bike, I thought it was a good idea. You might have to mess about with the tinware but it's available and relatively cheap, especially when the original items are expensive if you can find them.
I've also used Indian rear brake drum and sprocket with no problem at all, but I was panicked when someone posted that these are brittle and break. No problem with mine. There is a certain make that comes in a yellow box with writing on that seems to be good, I can't remember the name now. It might be Bullfrog or something similar.
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Gees Horror, I should have got you to buy my new drum for me.
First one the pins were not concentric with the hole so it would not bolt up.
Number 2 was machined off center, didn't notice that till I went to tension the chain which just about snapped when I tried to rotate the wheel
number 3 ( I am a glutton for punishment )again had the pins out of position.
This was supposed NOS and came in navy blue, obvious right out of the scrap bin.
Gave up after that and got my old one rebanded
email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au
The Norton front mudguard never has the \"V\" shape right but are good and solid. The rear ones are much more sturdy than the original and after buying an original set, I have used the original front, but the repro rear as it held the back end a lot firmer than the thinner original. As I\'m usually two up on the bike, I thought it was a good idea. You might have to mess about with the tinware but it\'s available and relatively cheap, especially when the original items are expensive if you can find them.
I\'ve also used Indian rear brake drum and sprocket with no problem at all, but I was panicked when someone posted that these are brittle and break. No problem with mine. There is a certain make that comes in a yellow box with writing on that seems to be good, I can\'t remember the name now. It might be Bullfrog or something similar.
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
The yellow box carries the name “Mad Bull”... I’ve used their headlamps before and they seem to be of relatively good quality and fit.
email (option): teladelujo@msn.com
Where did you get the headlight glass on the bike in the picture?
email (option): pswebster1@netzero.net
Steve, Dave Tann from this forum makes them for both sizes of headlamp and with the Difusa logo. PM me for his email address as I don't think he likes it published. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
The Norton front mudguard never has the \\\"V\\\" shape right but are good and solid. The rear ones are much more sturdy than the original and after buying an original set, I have used the original front, but the repro rear as it held the back end a lot firmer than the thinner original. As I\\\'m usually two up on the bike, I thought it was a good idea. You might have to mess about with the tinware but it\\\'s available and relatively cheap, especially when the original items are expensive if you can find them.
I\\\'ve also used Indian rear brake drum and sprocket with no problem at all, but I was panicked when someone posted that these are brittle and break. No problem with mine. There is a certain make that comes in a yellow box with writing on that seems to be good, I can\\\'t remember the name now. It might be Bullfrog or something similar.
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
The yellow box carries the name “Mad Bull”... I’ve used their headlamps before and they seem to be of relatively good quality and fit.
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
The M20 drum/sprocket I had shed its teeth (quickly)...It was made from cast iron rather than being machined from steel (as the UK manufactured ones are)...
It failed the large hammer test after I'd removed it from the bike and the typical cast iron grain structure was plain to see...along with the obvious clue it broke up easily with a few blows...Rubbish that was not fit for purpose in that case....Ian:grimacing:
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
My thanks to everyone who's responded to this thread. I'm not in a rush with this bike, but not willing to pay silly prices (£1000 for a rear mudguard?!) The main messages I'm taking are to keep clear of stressed or precision cycle parts, but that some tinware may be worth taking a chance, if extra work is assumed.
Craig
email (option): cmmacd@ hotmail.co.uk
Now I am sure I read an article in one of the vintage/ historic mags that some one had bought the tooling from Singer works and was remaking British mudguards
Down here we have Vintage Steel https://vintagesteelfenders.com/mudguards/bsa-wm20-front
quite reasonable prices and a top quality service
I have bought 2 B2 fronts and hopefully this year will catch up with the at the Bendigo swap this year and donate the rusty remains of the B2 rear guard.
Once they have made one, they log all the details so from then on it becomes a stock item.
email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au