Anyone recognise this and know its significance?
https://ibb.co/6rRNNqm

email (option): Larkesr@geeeemail.com

'Rust in Peace'....:laughing: ....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Army Chaplain

email (option): robmiller11(a)yahoo.co.uk

Ian, you’ve hurt. Gladys’ feelings😂
Rob, I had considered that, but would have thought would have been done with more care.
Think I will be replicating it along with the union jack on the front.....

email (option): Larkesr@geeeemail.com

Although in some early- to mid-war exercices, the 'enemy' were marked with white or yellow crosses, this is not in a very visible position and it is a late-war tank anyway...Most markings on the top of the fuel tanks from machines disposed of post-war relate either to storage or disposal....someone went down a row and marked those to be struck off or retained...

hi Scott,
took the liberty to insert the image. Hope that's ok?

email (option): cas.vanderwoude@gmail.com

I bought an M.20 in the 1970's and painted in white letters with a stencil I might add on top of the fuel tank was the following:

CP / BER

I made enquiries at Chilwell as to the meaning of this which transpired to be 'Cycle Parts / Beyond Economical Repair'. I replaced a lot of the cycle parts - it was only economical when comparing to todays prices and I still have the machine.

Down here it was done in yellow
Prov UR = Provisional Uneconomic repair, could be brought back into service by fitting used parts.
Cert UR = Certified Uneconomic Repair, to be kept as a parts donor only and never returned to service.

email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au

On the railways here in the UK rolling stock was marked with a circle with an X in it and the word COND for 'condemned'. Presumably then cut up! Spent many happy school holidays playing in the sidings on a rural branch line...
REgards, Mark

Hi Cas,
Yes that’s fine, thank you, not so easy via iphone!🙄
I have to say I am on a knife edge about keeping this paint and touching it up or dipping it and then re-creating the markings I have found. Unfortunately no unit or fleet numbers just this and remnants of a water slide union jack on the front left (suspect from its BAOR days).
What do we think people, baring in mind I had no choice but to bare metal everything else except the NOS girder? The 70’s in Germany has a lot to answer for when is came to paint choices!!😂
Scott

email (option): Larkesr@geeeemail.com

Trying to decipher fashion trends in motorcycle restoration is beyond me, but the current "survivor" look seems to fit in with my thoughts on this: good quality mechanical rebuilding and repainting only those bits that would corrode if left as-is. My feeling is that there can be beauty in the marks left by the passage of time. Grandma might not want a facelift and she might look a bit strange if she had one.

Sometimes the choice is fairly easy and at other times not so clear; but it will be different for each individual. Either way, the only view that it important to many of us is the one from the saddle. Personally, I think it is wonderful that I can experience a vintage motorcycle both as it would have been new, and what it looks like after 80 years of service. Please let's not have them all the same.

I have a lovely unit twin Triumph in original paint which I bought from the family of the original owner. The fenders are tatty, there is a dent in the tank, the spokes are no longer bright and shiny, but the engine is completely rebuilt and it's a joy to ride. (I feel like Marlin Brando riding my Thunderbird). A bit of polishing and careful application of matt clear coat here and there has kept it looking how I like it.

Then, I have a completely repainted WM20 that looks very close to how it was when dispatched. Either bike would be just as special to me if it had been the other way around. I would gladly take your tank in exchange for one that had been nicely repainted, and the next person would make the opposite decision. Neither is more "correct" than the other.

Enjoy it anyway that floats your boat.

Consider carefully rubbing it down with very fine wet and dry, using a phosphoric metal etch for the bare metal, then a few coats of matt clear. If it looks wrong, you can always strip and repaint and all it has cost you is $20 to find out. One very clear advantage for the "thrifty" dutchman I am, is that an original paint tank allows one to use slightly imperfect cycle parts that are not perfectly chromed etc to complete the "look".

email (option): cas.vanderwoude@gmail.com