Matchless army recon engines came as an assembled lump, complete engine, engine plates, mag, dyno, I doubt they disaasembled them to fit to the bike?

As a Matchless owner for over 50 years, I've never understood why people had so much trouble with this sort of thing.

Ken, when I said feel free to criticise or add, I was hoping for constructive criticism. Your post is not much help,and frankly what Army recon engines were supplied with is now pretty much irrelevant as there are none left. Perhaps you could help us out a little. A very good friend of mine is just starting a WD G3L build -From parts he has slowly amassed. I mailed him my list and he is very pleased as like me he doesn't have hours and hours of workshop time to waste, I still run a garage repairing Landrovers and my friend maintains a large fleet of agricultural machines and vehicles.
Having a simple list to follow is not because it is a difficult task,its just about saving time and the frustation of having to take off parts you have just fitted.

email (option): joncvsv8@yahoo.co.uk

At my age Jon I much prefer to fit the crankcase assembly into the frame and then build up the engine, even sometimes if it means fitting the pistons into the barrel first (Indian's for instance). I struggle on my own with gammy limbs and all to lift a complete engine and put it in the frame, especially as I'm paranoid about my paintwork.

Matchless's are not my favorite bikes to work on, but I'm currently doing a tidy up and get it going on a friends G3L that hasn't run for 2 years after it was turned upside down in a trailer incident at the 2017 W&P show. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I've restored and re built many g3ls over the last few years, I always fit the rear engine plates with bolt loose to the frame, i always fit the bottom half engine, I fit the front engine plate with the horn and spacers, leave bolts loose, then put the engine in the frame, fit front mount bolt, fit bolts to the rear mounts with Dynamo strap, and the fit the front lower engine/frame mount with the two spacers. Tighten all bolts, fit the Dynamo and bolt for the chain case, then the gearbox, fit barrel and rest of the engine top end, then fit the magneto, fit timing side case, fit spacers and then inner primary case, fit clutch and dyno chain etc and then another spacer and bolt, then outer primary cover, fit seal then allot band. Fit foot rest bar with spacer between the engine plates, fit carb and exhaust, kick start and gear lever, time the engine, add engine oil.

I have fitted the engine complete a few times but you do need help and plus you could scratch paint etc
I spoes thees bike are easy to work for me and ken and some others on the forum as we do em all the time but if you do t know much about em it can be a pain, knowing all the bolts and spacers

Thanks and all the best, Barry

email (option): fullerbarry@hotmail.co.uk

John, the long stud that goes through the primary case has a spacer between the engine plates, another as you say between the engine plate and inner primary and then a spacer and washer inside the primary case. Cheers JT

email (option): Tinley@btinternet.com

Damn I forgot to mention that extra spacer in the primary bolt

email (option): fullerbarry@hotmail.co.uk

Thank you Ron,John and Barry. Yes I did forget that spacer ! And I didn't add it in my list - Which I will edit. My problem is that I work on so many different things I just can't remember all the little bits. I currently have a 1948 IOE Land Rover engine to build, a TD5 Landrover head in bits,2x G3L's,a Stihl chainsaw engine and a part built B44 Bsa. Then there is a 1950 Chevrolet pickup and a 1959 SII Landrover to finish restoring...
Too much to do !

email (option): joncvsv8@yahoo.co.uk

Each to their own,

One thing that I find helps assembly is to not faff about with fitting the various studs. I have a selection of long tapered rods which I use to bash into the various holes to get the engine into place, better that trying to strain bits into place to get the studs through.