Can anyone please confirm?
I have read the tech section docs and I am still not 100% clear.
Do the spokes with the thicker root go on the brake side of the hub?
TIA
Scott

email (option): larkesrATgmail.com

The rear hub is a cotton reel and apart from a slightly different angle and length for the offset, the spokes both side are the same straight 8 gauge.

There are however 'butted' 8/10 gauge spokes on the drum side of the front wheel. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Don't think your fully correct here, Ron... 8 gauge spokes for both sides it is, but the driveside of the rearhub has bigger size slots to accept a butted head, think 6 gauge heads.

So Scott, if you have original spokes the butted ones will only fit the driveside, unless the slots have been modified off course.

Also make sure you have the rim the correct way around, the spokeholes are not placed symmetrical because of the offset. Good luck, Michiel

Hi Ron/Michiel,
Thanks for answering so quickly, I was hoping to get into this today and thanks to you I am well into it now! :)
What you described Michiel is what Les from Russell Motors sent me and they seemed to match the specs from the tech section (when I eventually understood it).
So I had a 50/50 chance with the rim as I had already laced it loosely and having tightened it up "finger tight" the rim is nearer to the drive side which I think is correct if I understand you correctly?
Now to get the offset right and true it up, managed to get the front to within 20 thou, round and true.

email (option): larkesrATgeemail.com

Quite right! The spec sheet only mentions 'butted' spokes on the front, drum side. But now I look at an original wheel I have, the Drum side rear spokes are indeed butted for a short distance. Maybe these pics will also help with lacing. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks for pictures Ron, always nice to have a comparison, eventually got them right at second attempt!
Progressing nicely today, slight oddity, I seem to have two holes for the valve!
Can anyone tell me what this is all about?
Scott

email (option): larkesrATgmail.com

Scott the other hole is for a 'Rim Lock'. To stop the tyre spinning on the rim, especially for use when operating off road with low tyre pressures. I never fit them and if I have a rim with an extra hole, I just put a dummy threaded stud in it. Ron

https://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/workshop__and__tools/motocross_tools/motion_pro_tools/motion_pro_rim_lock?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwODlBRDuARIsAMy_28WxU0NXKFCS1Kby0IsZv954KftK4a1pMyHHL609CeGNir0bBI8Mf7gaAgITEALw_wcB

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Here's one I did earlier with a dummy rim lock stud:innocent: Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

So suitable sized bolt and a good blob of loctite then!

email (option): larkesrATgmail.com

Yep and a the shallow round head of a coach bolt is best or grind the head of a normal bolt/set down. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

It's not that simple! the bolt needs to be 5/16" Withworth, with the head almost turned down (in a lathe) to nothing, then on the outside a chrome leather washer, a steel washer and a nut, then it's like the originals. (this is for rivet counters only!)



Cheers,

Lex

email (option): welbike@welbi**.net (think about this!)

Ah now rivet counting is not my thing I am afraid.
This may be a restoration project but I am not going to the forensic level. Don’t tell the counters but it’s just been sprayed green(ish), shock, horror!😂
And before they start the “ah but is it an accurate colour?” debate, its colour matched from the NOS girder I obtained and I don’t see how more original you can get than that!
Anyways chaps, damn fine assistance received and most appreciated I could, possibly, have the back end together before I hit the hay. Front end next week, the list is finally getting shorter!!
Scott

email (option): larkesrATgmail.com

Never heard the term "rim lock" Ron........more usually referred to as a "security bolt" although in fairness, the item is far more than just a bolt............

I also thought that the purpose of the item was to stop the inner tube from rotating (rather than the tyre) which could result in the valve being damaged or torn off................??

I've always known them as tyre clamps...
The clue to the function's in the name...They clamp the tyre to the rim and stop it turning on the rim when low pressures are employed for off road use...If not fitted the risk is the tyre turns on the rim, pulling the tube along with it which then rips out the valve....

Whilst on terminology I've also always known 'monoshock' rear suspension as 'cantilever', 'swing arm' as 'swinging arm' (or more correctly 'pivoted rear fork') and 'triple trees' as 'steering yokes'...:laughing: Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com