Hello all.
I'm a new owner and a complete novice, sorry. I'd email Ron and ask question after question, but I thought best not to bombard him (yet!).
I'm so new at this, today was my first day at getting it started.
Firstly had to figure out the simple task of how much oil to put in it. I filled it up with the filter still inside and the oil just filled the centre channel of that and not the oil tank itself! I can see I have a lot to learn here.

It took near 50 attempts I think, before it ran. Granted, I'm having to learn EVERYTHING from the ground up. It started with a combination of 1/3rd from fully retarded ignition, 1/4 open choke and the minutest twist of the throttle. This was today's greatest achievement. We all have to start somewhere.

I have some questions (many in fact):

- There is fuel around the spark plug, I believe from my failed 49 attempts. Compression just forcing the fuel out during the non-firing attempts, but thought I'd check that it is normal for my newbie status.

- The ring that goes around the gear selector to inform which gear you are in, has moved. It is now in neutral between 2nd and 3rd. It moves by hand, so is loose - is that a characteristic or something knackered?

- I can select first gear and go back to neutral but anything after that doesn't feel to engage, this is without the engine running. That worries me. Should I be able to run up and down the gears?

- There is an oil leak what looks like from the left side foot peg, but I'll have to narrow that down as it's dark now. What is likely to leak from that side?

- The front tyre has 'MAY 56' written on it (still has WD marking) - does that mean it was likely still used by the military up to at least that year? The rear tyre looks newer and says 'made in the USSR' on it! That did make me laugh.

- The underside of the frame has a felt tip marker with writing "Recht + Bus BV." At least that's what it looks like. Any ideas what that is?

I'm off to bed, too much excitement for one night!
Tomorrow I might even progress to seeing if the lights work (woo hoo).
Any help on the above points, greatly appreciated.

Phill.

email (option): zorg.enterprises@googlemail.com

Hello Phill,

Congratulations on your new bike! There are always plenty of things to work out on these bikes, so I'll venture some ideas.

Here are a few tips in response to your questions:

Most bikes start best from cold at about 7/8 advance, choke fully on, little to no throttle. The thing is that I don’t know how accurately yours is set up. Once it’s running advance the timing and see if it works better. If it pings then your 1/3 advance may be best for your bike. It may be that that equates to 'full advance'. Timing selection is, after all, about where the engine operates best.

As for extra fuel seeping out around the plug, yes, it will do that if you’ve been kicking it through unsuccessfully. When you get your starting technique worked out it shouldn’t be a problem, but tighten the plug properly anyway.

The ring around the gear selector is simply an indicator pressed onto the end of the shaft. If it doesn’t point to the right number on the outer casing then it may have a damaged center. It’s only a pressed steel disc, so it won’t upset your gearbox.

As for gear selection, if you can get into first that’s great. Second sometimes requires the gear shafts to be moving, as when the engine is running or when you rock the bike – at least it does with mine. You can put the bike on its stand, run it, and then see how well it goes through the gears. If you have problems after trying that you may want to check if the clutch is disengaging properly. If it won’t do that then it’ll be hard to get into gears generally. Make sure you have some oil in the gearbox! I once had a barn find bike that had a gearbox with the selector forks gummed with rust. Putting more oil in the gearbox and swilling it around, with the engine running, helped that one along nicely without the need to dismantle it. But it also required patience before it freed itself up.

The leak from the left side footrest may be due to a bad seal between the footrest’s supporting rod and the case on the inside. There’s supposed to be a cork washer there. For now drain excess oil from the case by using the level plug below the footrest. These chaincases had a way of leaking, but that’s not a major worry.

As for the tyres – I had some with the WD markings and 11/44 (for November 1944), while the other was marked 1952. They held air. I discarded them.

I don’t know about the felt tip marker inscription – but felt tips haven’t been around that long, so I’d venture it says, in German, “right side lead goes to positive battery pole”??

I hope this helps.

Allan

email (option): allanmatchless@yahoo.com

The oil leaking from the primary case, could be because it's wet sumped whilst it's been stood and could be why your oil tank was empty/low and why you couldn't start it. (ie. Has the oil in the tank seeped into the crankcase and through the main bearings into the primary case, which can be advised later)

Take the drain plug out of the crankcase and empty the oil into a clean dish before returning it to the oil tank. Also remove the level plug in the primary case as Allan suggested. There should only be 1/2" or so of oil in there.

Was there white smoke when it fired up?

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Welcome to the club, Phill. It's good to have new forum members.
Maybe you can post some pictures, esp the ignition, caburettor etc.

One more thing, if you kick start the bike, get it off the stand and stand over it, the bike between your legs.
Otherwise you will for sure damage the stand.

Some great responses here, many thanks Alan, a reassuring reply for sure!

Despite me resisting emailing Ron, you replied anyway! Many thanks to you and Mick.
I'll do as instructed with the oil today and take some photos.

There wasn't any white smoke when it started, just black smoke when throttling, but I had the choke near fully on, for a while so will have been rich.

email (option): zorg.enterprises@googlemail.com

Hi Phil,

Welcome to the club! Regarding all the issues, I don't have to guess you're the new owner of a Beeza.......

Feel free to post a few pictures!

Good luck!

Sven

email (option): snvosselman@gmail.com

Thanks to the help previously.
I drained the oil from the sump and it was full!
I then dropped the oil from the primary chain case, which was also pretty well lubricated!
The bike then started first time, which is great. It even idles on its own and no choke is needed. I'm very pleased about this :)

Onto some more novice questions/observations if I may......?

I have a leak from the carb. I suspect it is at the location below, as that is where it seems to sit. Any thoughts?
I thought about just overhauling it. Is there a service kit?



Do you know what the hooks on the tank are for? Can't find any pictures with them in use!



This threaded bracket, doesn't appear to have a use. I the brake cable meant to go through it or does it serve another purpose?



Thanks in advance!

email (option): zorg.enterprises@googlemail.com

Hi Phill,

Some answers to your questions,

The hooks under your tank, are for the tyre pump.

The bracket that is on the fork leg, that's a left over from when the M20 used the rod front brake. Some people put the brake cable through it, and I have seen people put a spark plug in there, for a spare I guess.

Hope this helped? and welcome.

Dave