Hi guys,
I'm a bit puzzled... Is there a difference between a Lucas CZ27 and a CZ11 if so, what??
Also, would it be appropriate to fit either to a 1943 bike?
Many thanks
The Lucas catalogues are quite hard to follow, but I think you're right Rob. The CZ27 seems to be from 39/40 onward (CZ= Center Zero) The other common pre war ammeter is the model BM4 but I thinks it's 2". Ron
Lucas were masters of supersession and it's not always clear what they did and why. Sometimes part numbers changed with no apparent alteration to the component...and other times the part changed substantially but the name didn't.
My 11/39 Ammeter with domed glass and mica illumination window is marked 'CZ27'.
Same here, i have a 1939 CZ27 with a domed glass and mica window. I have just fitted a 1941 CZ27 to a mates bike and that had a domed glass. Never seen one as late as this with the domed glass though.
Your panel is intersting Rob as it confirms the use of SCC No.2 into 1944 which is what we would expect, it casts a lot of doubt on how many British vehicles in June 1944 would have been Olive Drab - Not many as I understand it but amongst restored vehicles, it has taken over.
Cz11.L7 is shown in the 35-39 Lucas catalogue
CZ 14 DJ has grub screws and a special flange 10 amp
CZ 27 L ivory face
CZ27.L1 black face dome d glass
CZ.27.L2 white face coil ignition
Hi ,
Although I don't have a WD bike I have been reading your comments re ammeters.
I have a civilian Norton from 1939
Is there any cash Ex that one of you guys might have a suitable ammeter to sell?
I'm in Australia
Cheers
Greg
Your panel is intersting Rob as it confirms the use of SCC No.2 into 1944 which is what we would expect, it casts a lot of doubt on how many British vehicles in June 1944 would have been Olive Drab - Not many as I understand it but amongst restored vehicles, it has taken over.[/quote]Someone was talking to a veteran who said he remembered most of the vehicles being brown on D-Day.
I have restored lots of cz27's the last years..mostly with broken needles and faded dialfaces..seen them with burned coils .but i always could repair them..even i had some that are totaly unscribted..but it looks like they are even when broken not easy to find anymore these days..
So if people have broken ones laying in a mostly forgotten box.i would be interested in them...they are worth it to restore them.
looking for parts ans info to rebuilt my g3Wo 2 inch BM 4 L33 ammeter, what thickness copper wire is needed and of what total lenght. i also in the process of making a face and needle.
regards
kalli
1.2 mm thicknes coeted copperwire.the length is not a issue..was it already a 8 amp meter, then make the same windings as the old one .solder it on place to the terminals but give it a good look that the windings are as close as can to the shaft were the pointer is mounted.
A correct dialface you can order from argentina..look on ebay for smiths chronometric parts and you will find stuff from him..his name is there nortondominator.
If you need a new pointer..i can help you with that,just mail me if needed
yes it is a 6V, 8-0-8 BM4 L33 carcass, it is original to the bike. was broken and all the vital internals gone. cleaned it throughout and repaired what was there so got it to a stage it can be rebuild.
so no original wire to take measurements from, i estimate total leght about 250mm 3- 5 turns of wire and test it and adjust. i intend to raid the insides of a cheap indian one. do i need a magnet to make it return to 0?
Any ideas what the L33 variation stunds for? i assume its a lighting window orientation difference?
thank for the info and the offer roy, i ll hit you up.
This is from the 1939 Lucas CAV catalogue and the L33 is not shown. It may well be that the only difference from a pre-war version was a dull chrome rather than bright chrome bezel.
