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Gear change

Hello all,

yesterday, for the first time, I took the bike out for a 180 km ride. All went well...
except for the gear change:
going from 2nd into 3rd, almost half of the times, I have no (3rd) gear. The issue occurs occasionally from 3rd to 4th.

So I wonder: is it the driver or the machine...

If it's the machine, I guess the gearbox will need some work? Can someone point me into the direction of the cause?

Thanks
Piet

email (option): carawagon@telenet.be

Re: Gear change

Piet,

do you mean have no third gear at all ?
Or is it just a false neutral between gears (that happens more often)

Re: Gear change

You have to make sure you positively clunk it past the false neutrals. It's best not to hurry the changes. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Gear change

I agree with Ron.

If I remember correctly, the army manual says to leave the lever pressed,
And lift the foot only after you leave the clutch and the gear is engaged.

I too have something like this sometimes, (Maybe when shifting too fast, or not all the way?)
I get a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd, and when I shift up again, I am at 4th gear already...

Noam.

Re: Gear change

Ha Ha. Same here Noam. I sometimes hit the false neutral between 2 and 3 and when I stab it again to correct it, I'm in top gear.....usually with all the revs and momentum gone. :flushed: Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Gear change

Thank you for the reaction guys! For the moment I keep it on the false neutral and I'll blame the driver.:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: Next time I'll concentrate on the speed of changing gear and I'll keep the foot on the lever...

email (option): carawagon@telenet.be

Re: Gear change

If you have oil contaminated dry friction plates, you can have gear selection problems.

I seem to think you can get wet and/or dry friction plates, but the proper fix is to prevent oil getting in the first place.

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Re: Gear change

Sounds good, Patrick, but how ?
I had oil in my chaincase. Found out after a while it all moved INSIDE the bolar hat !
Even though there was a gasket there.

Re: Gear change

Hi Michael

Overfilling the primary chain case is usually the culprit (wet sumping can cause the levels to be excessive too). The temptation can be to overfill with oil because it can be difficult to get a good seal between inner and outer primary chain cases i.e. "I will put in a bit extra just in case".

A good seal on the bowler hat is important, but sounds like you have this.

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Re: Gear change

Aiii, it's bowler hat - excuses to all you British

Re: Gear change

Just thinking that the oil inside the bowlerhat could well be come from the gearbox. Lots of gearboxes have quite some play on the long bronze bush in the sleevegear. Some of the oil which is leaking from here may find it way along the mainshaft to the clutchsleeve. Especially while standing on the fieldstand. Once there it could get inside the clutch through the rollers or along the keyway in the taper of the clutchsleeve.

Originally there should be a little taper shaped felt washer which runs against the chamfer in gearbox sleevegear. This felt washer is pushed against the sleeve gear by the cork which should be inside the clutch sleeve. This felt ring, cork and chamfer in the sleevegear are often omitted when the sleeve gear is rebushed.

Below a picture of the chamfer in the sleevegear in which the feltring should run.

IMG 4552

Cheers, Michiel

email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com

Re: Gear change

That's a good point indeed, Michiel.
Never thought of that before.
I will think of the felt ring next time.

Re: Gear change

Hi Michael

You could fill the gearbox with green oil from Halfords.

This way you can see if the oil in the bowler hat is coming along the shaft.

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

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