Can anyone suggest please somewhere in the UK I can send my timing cover to have the timing hole cut and tapped to make life easier .Ive sent my mag off for refurb and last time I had to set the timing the cover was on and off more times the a whores draws on 'VE night thanks for any help in advance Andrew .

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

I know a guy who could certainly do it and make a very good job. Last time I saw him he was talking about just concentrating on competition machines but I'll give him a call. Mine needs doing as well so it might be morew worthwhile for him rather than just doing one.
Cheers
Dean
PS. don't you just hate it when you've just finished restoring your M20 when you realise you need to take the tank off to photograph the frame number and the rear bolt thread strips when you're replacing it GRRRRRRRRR

Dean the guy who was going to look at mine I think I mentioned it to you didn't want to get involved.so if you know someone it would be good if you can let me know cheers

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

Just so you know. The hole/thread in the early timing cover is the same as the inspection plug in the primary case. Allthough the primary case has a brass plug whereas the timing cover has an aluminium plug. I would not want to be without it. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron yes that's the one as per photo I think the size, thread etc are in tech section cheers Andrew

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

I never liked them myself...I'd rather take the timing cover off to be sure the gear mesh, drive gear oil seal etc. are all in order...Also, they weren't standard fitment for most years...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I think Ian you proberley set yours head off with dial gauge , which I will try now in gaining confidence .Last time I did the two marks on a stick method which i guess is never going to be as accurate, I must of took the timing cover off 20 times I was losing the will to live but it was my first time .

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

Hi Andrew

The two marks on a stick will get you there.

It is better to get some welding rod (take all the shit off first and make sure it is clean) or thin steel rod bent into an "L" shape. The L bit goes upside down, so that it has no chance of falling into the bore. Make sure the rod is short enough not to get stuck on the fuel tank.

The benefit of using a stick is if it falls into the bore, then it is head off and do it accurately. Obviously, if you take the head off, then you need to anneal the head gasket or replace if it is a composite gasket.

Regards

Pat

ps Doing the timing in freezing cold rain is no fun at all!

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

I'm now using a welding rod Pat.I did use a wooden Kabab stick at first but reached across it caught it on my sleeve and it snapped off luckily I managered to get it out with tweezers.

It's a learning curve

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

I always said those Kebabs are bad for you..:laughing: ....There's an extensive article on ignition timing, the principles, the setting and the checking, in the Technical Section of this site....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

One year in Normandy (Ian will no doubt remember) I had a small queue each evening at my camping pitch of blokes with badly timed ignition's. There was no way I was going to remove their petrol tanks and cylinder heads whilst on my knees in a field. Although one bloke was nearly ready with all the head bolts on his M20 completely loose.:flushed: I had some of those long firelighter matchsticks (about 4") in my tool bag, which were ideal for the timing hole on a SV and the plug hole on an OHV. :+1: Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

All the timing articles Ive printed off there now covered in oilly finger prints laying next to the bike they have been indespentiable. Just along wait for the mag to come back and we can do it all again 😂😂😂😂

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

I have made myself this handy tool for the M20, a 1/4" cycle bolt with a small hole, thread makes that you can easy adjust the top of the bolt head to the marking.



Every time you put the head off and on you wear out the threads and risk stripping them, which is not that hard to do. I wouldn't take it off if not totally necessary

email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com

I have a very similar tool but with a dial gauge to do the measuring......Although the petrol tank does have to be off to use it I have done so in a camping field...

After problems in the past with head bolt threads I always helicoil them all at rebuild time, so there is no worry there if the head does have to be removed for any reason...
I also helicoil the three holes that take the inner primary chain case retaining bolts as a matter of course and lately I've drilled and tapped through the sump drain plug and fitted an allen bolt so that the plug itself can stay in position and the crankcase thread isn't being 'worked' to often...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Rob Miller remembers I'm sure....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Working like that in long grass is just asking for trouble drop a nut and it's game over 😂😂😂.I'm just looking at that tool to screw in the timing hole without appearing to be a complete dick I take it the bolt screws all the way in but is short enough not to hit the piston is the inner rod just free to slide up and down it's not threaded in other words ??

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

I can see exactly what Michiel's tool is. Very simple and I like it. Just an old spoke or something, which is a loose sliding fit through the bolt. I will ask my mate to drill through a bolt for me as my pedestal drill and machine vice would be far from accurate.

Rob would have had no choice if you're on a camping trip and something brakes. Horror had to do exactly the same on his Norton in France a few years ago and before that, I had a rear wheel bearing collapse on my CO and had to repair it in that same field. Thank God for Hitchcock's Motorcycles and Fedex. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Yes I see it's free to slide within the bolt.good idea I'm sure it alittle more accurate as it holds the rod square consistently . Well that my Sunday morning sorted .

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

I remember that Ron!....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Give it ago Ron like you I thought it won't work . I just centre punched a 30 mm nobbies nuts bolt which is long enough not as long as bolt thats in but enough .
Drilled from shank end not head 2.5 mm drill went through second attempt first snapped bit my fault.welding rod through simple thanks for idea Michiel.

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

Sorry Guys, patent applied for !! :smiley: :smiley:

If you make the 2 lines on the lathe you can get them accurate at 7/16". Good luck!

email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com

"After problems in the past with head bolt threads I always helicoil them all at rebuild time, so there is no worry there if the head does have to be removed for any reason....Ian"

I do like the 16H design with studs and nuts instead of bolts. Think it will give less problems with stripped threads. Does it work OK ?? Think it could be adopted on the M20.....

email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com

I sold an M21 barrel recently that had studs fitted as on the Norton, it seems in the past someone had the same thought...

I have found on Norton engines that have run for a while the nut tends to rust to the stud and when removed the whole thing unscrews from the barrel, so some stainless might be needed...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi Andrew

I had a timing cover modified by a company In the the Netherlands

I will dig out their details but these are the same people who make the clutch modifications for m20 clutches amongst other mods

I’ll post their details later

Job

email (option): jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Cheers john thanks for help

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

Ok

The company which did mine was THB support

Check on the links page on the website loading page

I sent my timing cover & inspection cap to them

They did a nice job on it

Best regards

John

email (option): jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Thanks for getting back to me John,I may have sorted it in UK but THB will be my back up plan Thanks again for help

Cheers Andrew

email (option): andrewbell12@hotmail.co.uk

Not really on topic. But I once saw a bloke whip off the timing cover on a Norton single, get a bloody big screwdriver behind the timing pinion, use the engine casting as a fulcrum, & heave. The engine casting was bending quite interestingly but the pinion came off before it broke.

Mag pinions that you have to lever off is a pet hate of mine:white_frowning_face: Matchless and Norton come to mind. At least Ariel adapted their chain drive pinion to take a spacial puller. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Michiel's TDC is very neat.

Why do I always end up with three lining marks, one above TDC and one below.......oh yes, because I am thick!

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Ron, do you mean to say that you have to lever the pinions off on some bikes? I didn't know that, sounds pretty hairy especially once the things get to a good age.

Bob, Norton show a special hooked tyre lever but of course lots of guys will resort to a big screw driver, which is especially dangerous on the mag pinion as you're liable to crack the casing. I use a small two legged puller as suggested in the Matchless book, but even though I've modified it and ground the claws, it's still bloody awkward, hit and miss!

In my opinion, Triumph had the best idea. The bikes came with a removable plug to save taking the whole timing cover off, and the puller is incorporated into the mag pinion retaining nut.....Simples. Ron

free photo hosting sites

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Ron
Thanks for enlightening me. My M20's the only bike of that period I've ever had. I just assumed all the pinions or sprockets had the same arrangement as mine.
It certainly looked hairy as he levered that sprocket off.