Is there a tension for this or do you knock it up taken off primary case and it is loose

email (option): knoxyjb@yahoo.com.au

You have to get them tight or the inertia will spin them undone (no drive). There should also be a lock washer, but I never bother with it. I just use loctite on the thread and I wind them up with one of Robb Nortiers special sockets and my rattle gun rather than the usual hammer and soft drift.

Email me or Robb if you want to buy any of his special M20 tools. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I always wonder what happens to the bearings when you tighten this nut with a hammer and chisel. You are of course bashing directly on your expensive bearings inside the engine.

I made a support to take up the hits of the hammer and direct the force to the floor of the workshop. I guess this helps to avoid bearing damage.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

You are probably quite right Henk! Not to mention what it does to the castellations on the nut. I think they were only ever meant to be done up with a spanner. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Henk,
i always have the same question about the cush drive.
Does tightening the nut put any pressure on the main bearing ?

Yes it does, they are directly behind the sprocket in the crankcase. I don't think pressure on them will harm them but hitting the nut with a hammer and chisel could do damages. These nuts can be extremely damaged so quite a lot of force has been used while tightening them.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Use a correct size C-spanner! They don't cost much, and you can hit them at the handle with a soft-head hammer

Hi Hans, What size are those??

Using a rattle gun on any engine crankshaft nut is a bad idea! I have seen more than a few bikes were the crank pin moved in the flywheels and put the crank out of alignment. Velocettes are the worst as they only rely on the pin taper and have no crank pin nuts. Make a tool to hold the sprocket and then tighten the nut.

Bruce

I simply use a short piece of 10x10 aluminium square bar as drift, it fits nicely into the indentations of the nut and doesn't damage the nut at all.

For me it works better than a C spanner and think the bearings can handle this short impact....

I agree with Michiel,

A alloy bar or a brass bar will not do it any damagage. You can do more damage running it loose as it wears the bearing spacer bush and the oil flinger. This shocker lock nut in affect locks everything together on the mainshaft pulling all bearings spacers,flingers hard up agains the drive side flywheel.

Tim W

email (option): t.j.walker@btinternet.com

You can use either Gedore No.40z, 52/55mm or Gedore No. 40, 45-51mm, or equivalent. For the clutch nut you need a 50mm (2") one.
Hope this helps

Thanks Hans! Scott D