The reason I asked is that a guy has phoned me with an M20 non starter after having the mag rebuilt and a new concentric carb. I'm trying to talk him through it, and he tells me he's done a compression test and got a reading of 50 psi. I agree, if I had the bike in front of me, I would have a fair idea if it had reasonable compression or not, but just trying to find out what the reading should. Ron
About 120 psi would be more like it I'd have thought...
However, there are variables in the test procedure to consider..Personally I think the 'standing on the kickstart' test is just as effective...
How you measure compression doesn't really matter, only that you have enough..and 'enough' in this case is to just take your weight on the kickstart...
Saying all that though, M20s will usually start even when worn...I'd check everything else (ignition spark, timing, carb set up, fuel supply, plug etc.) before getting to compression or lack of it...Ian
I've seen mention on other forums of swarf in new Concentrics. Is it a Premier, a standard Amal 600 or a Wassell ? What size bore is it ?
It seems a characteristic of the Mk1 concentric that any blockage of the pilot air drillings will cause a great deal of difficulty in starting and extremely poor running up to very wide openings.
I've only had them on twins and it's possible then to isloate what a single defective carb is doing but I can imagine that on a single, it wouldn't run at all.
The 276s seem more forgiving in this respect - probably because they spray fuel everywhere.
Sometimes it starts even if exhaust lifter is on (when cold), so compression isn't problem. In my experience low compression affects most idle running.
I agree with everything so far. But it's difficult dealing with someone at the other end of the country who's never owned such a bike before. I'm trying to talk him through the starting procedure, and now found out the bike has been stood for a number of years...So I've directed him to the sump drain plug for his next job Ron
If 50 PSI is a real value it is way too low and there is no chance of him kick starting that bike. It can be tow started or clutched on a reasonable sized hill.
A newly ringed M20 should go 120 to 150 psi. throttle wide open.
Most people do not have the kit needed to make accurate compression readings.
So in most cases the numbers are meaningless.
Tell him to squirt some oil down the plug hole, kick the bike over 3 or 4 times then take another reading.
If it is higher than the first one his rings are not sealing, which on a fresh rebuild is not uncommon.
HE can try towing it around the block a few times throttle wide open in 2nd gear with no lead on the plug to get an initial seal on the rings.
However if this is his first job on a bike like this I would start by asking what grit it was honed to,
Chances he got it done at a car place who has honed to the standard 320 to 400 grit in which case the rings will never seal.
Timed on the wrong stroke is my bet if he's put the mag back and he's a newbie
That was the first thing I suggested, or on the down ramp instead of the up ramp. But the way he described what he'd done seemed as if he'd understood the procedure. My moneys still on wet sump.....Which he didn't know about. Ron
Engine cold and was running ~Xmas -
110 psi throttle closed & 125psi throttle open.
It required ~3 kicks to max the compression as my cylinder gauge has a pressure hold facility showing max pressure attained.
In my experience it depends on what causing the low compression;
If its the valves - then yes it does effect low speed.
If its the rings/piston - they will usually run very well at low speed (up to the point the plug oils up!) but top speed & high load is effected.