Hello everyone.

I found this web some months ago, and I have finally decided to write on it.

If you don't matter, I'll write some lines as a presentation. I'm a WW2 reenactor from Spain, and I also like riding bikes. About one year ago, a friend of mine told me about another friend, whose father had four bikes liying in a farm, in the middle of the mountains. At first, I thought that they were going to be spanish bikes from the 60's and 70's, but some weeks later, my friend sent me pictures of what seemed to be two triumph and two BSA from the 40's.

As soon as I saw the pictures, I became really interested. We started negociating with the owner, and after two months, we finally bought them. (I'll try to attach the pictures, let's hope I do it correctly).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4B0IkO097A4/VsRog9Ctq1I/AAAAAAAAAJE/n9aw6qi6qQU/s640-Ic42/IMG-20150518-WA0011.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9f6eyarkVOU/VsRoglIVK2I/AAAAAAAAAJA/ZWDSa5Xl2t4/s144-Ic42/IMG-20150518-WA0008.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K8AVENuMxZA/VsRoghCtYBI/AAAAAAAAAJI/Yh_CQHf5-kU/s144-Ic42/IMG-20150518-WA0007.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K0160yXpt_s/VsRogWOcRnI/AAAAAAAAAJI/h1ume0mtcbQ/s144-Ic42/IMG-20150518-WA0006.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-slVQN8zcvpM/VsRocS0Iq_I/AAAAAAAAAJI/MwsMFwFiUQE/s144-Ic42/IMG-20150518-WA0003.jpg


When loading the bikes in the trailer, I could take a closer look to the serial numbers, and to my surprise, three of them had a W stamped on it, so we assumed they were military bikes (which, being a reenactor, made me so happy!)

I finally kept the BSA M20, my friend kept one of the triumph 3HW's, and another friend bought the other 3HW and the BSA B30.

We are now checking them, and trying to get license plates for them, so they can be legally ridden. At that point, I would like to start restoring my BSA to give it a WW2 look, but I have some doubts (well, maybe "a lot of" is more correct than "some").

I thought that maybe I could find some help in this forum, am I in the right place?

email (option): albertpascualp@iqs.edu

Hello Albert, well done the M20 was the best choice.

What sort of B30 is it, most of your pictures are a bit small?

Rob

email (option): robmiller11(a)yahoo.co.uk

Welcome on board Albert,

Be good to meet you on the show circuit here in the South West of England sometime !

Regards,

Mark

email (option): towersmark84@yahoo.co.uk

('What sort of B30 is it, most of your pictures are a bit small?..')..

It looks like a B31 plunger..If there is a B30 in amongst it I'd certainly like to see more photos!....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hello,

Sorry for the mistake. It is a B31. From the serial number, it should be rigid, but it was at some point transformed to plunger. I can check the serial numbers at home.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K0160yXpt_s/VsRogWOcRnI/AAAAAAAAAJI/h1ume0mtcbQ/s800-Ic42/IMG-20150518-WA0006.jpg

I hope this image is bigger.

About the M20, I'd like to "un-civilize" it, but before spending more on her, I'd like to have it legal and running. It also has some indian, non original parts which I'll change, like the battery carrier, the carburettor (branded "pacco") and the headlight (It has a DU42 whith a domed glass adapted)

email (option): albertpascualp@iqs.edu

Hello,

The s/n are

WM2066***

ZB31 17***

Hi again!

Here comes the first set of questions. About the clutch:

I have disassembled the clutch to replace the plates. Everything has gone ok, but when assembled again, the clutch is not working. Instead of moving the plates, the rod is pushing the whole chain wheel basket, to the point that the bearings have started to fall!

I have disassembled it again, but now my question is what should I do to keep the chain wheel from moving again. Maybe someone can give me a hint.

The other question that I have is how does the oil reach the clutch? I'll explain myself; my bike came without the domed cover, so the clutch was wet from the primary chaincase oil. Looking at the manuals and spare lists, I have seen that there is a cover, and it seats on a gasket, so I assume that the oil should not go to the clutch from the chaincase. How is it lubricated then?

The last question, I have found it impossible to get the spring nut completely screwed, there was like 5 or 8mm of thread that wasn't screwed on the clutch sleeve. Is it Ok? Must it be completely screwed? May this be the reason for the clutch not working?

I appreciate your help. I have always loved classic bikes, but this is the first time that I have gone that far with one by myself.

well done the M20 was the best choice

Yes the M20 is the best choise becouse there is no ARIEL WNG in any of the photos

email (option): goodbell@ripnet.com

OK OK not funny to put on a M20 forum

email (option): goodbell@ripnet.com

We can take it! We're British don't you know? Stiff upper lip and all.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Yes the clutch needs the dome cover + casket, you can get repro covers on (eBay BSA M20). If the basket is falling off - have you put in the keyway on the gearbox shaft that sit through the clutch sleeve? have you tighten up the nut that screws onto the end of the gearbox shaft? As well have you included the cork washer that fits between the gearbox shaft and the clutch sleeve?

Look at the parts and workshop manuals they are free on the net.

Hi Ron
Sometimes my sense of humor can get the batter of me. I am also a BRIT born in Zummerset My gran had a BnB on locking road and I grew up in Gosport and portsmouth. I want to go home winter is to looonngg ere in Canada the great white north

Cheers Steven

email (option): goodbell@ripnet.com

Thanks for the info,

I managed to get a dome cover, I'll need the gasket for it. I bought some cork sheets, hopefully I will be able to make one by myself.

I bought a replacement clutch spring nut, because the threads on mine were all worn out, and I also bought a bolt, washer and nut to compress the spring and the spring nut. I'll Try it this weekend, if I'm lucky with it, I'll finish the primary case.

About the cork ring between the shaft and the sleeve, I haven't gone that far, so I have no idea if it is still there. I must check, thanks!


I still have no idea about how the oil arrives to the clutch. The clutch is isolated from the primary chaincase by the dome cover, and is also isolated from the gearbox, so how does the oil lubricate the clutch? Or is it a "dry" clutch and I didn't know it?

Thanks,

Albert

email (option): albertpascualp@iqs.edu

Yes it is a dry clutch. Ferodo linings like in your car. That is the reason for the dome to keep the oil out. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I think the cork gasket between the 'top hat' and clutch is too thick;there is very little space between the dome and the primary cover. I used an original gasket that's only 0.5 mm thick; I think a cardboard gasket will do.
And check the space with a blob of chewing gum on the dome...

Hi Albert,

The threads of the clutch nut are very fine and with that washer method from the service sheets it is easy to ruin the threads again.

Better make yourself a ring which goes just over the clutch nut and pushes the spring only, in this way you can turn the nut on square, without the spring pressure and without the risk of dolling the threads:



It is really worth the trouble of making one but if you don't have the facilities, I have a few left, email my direct if your interested.

Good luck!, Michiel / NL

email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com

Hello Michael,

I red in the technical section about the ring that you are talking about, but I have neither the welding ability nor the welding equipment to do such a tool.

I see that you use this tool with the whole clutch outside of the bike; can it be done on the bike?

Thanks for the offer, I'll send you an e-mail about the ring!

email (option): albertpascualp@iqs.edu

Sorry for changing your name Michiel ;)


I'll try to add some images so you can see my clutch. After checking this pictures, I doubt that the ring you say will be able to push the spring and not the nut:






Obviously, the nut that you see is the badly worn out, I have ordered a new one that should be at home this weekend.

Seems that I found the way to paste images!

email (option): albertpascualp@iqs.edu

Oh, I forgot to thank Ron for the dry clutch conirmation. I could not understand how oil was supposed to reach the clutch, but the answer was: It is not supposed to do so ;)

I tend to use oils like WD40 more than I should, and the new friction discs that I installed on the clutch got wet with it... Hope that it is not a problem, is it?

Thanks a lot for your help. Every step that I take makes me think again that I did a mistake buying this bike... But Luckily I'll get it running some day!

email (option): albertpascualp@iqs.edu

That's a seriously damaged nut...
A tool you absolutely need is a C-spanner. Also have a look at the Technical Section of the website for other solutions for handling this nut and spring

Hi Albert, You can see that the spring is slightly larger than the nut, the ring on the tool has a lip on the inside, larger diameter will go over the spring and the lip will go over the clutch nut and pushes the spring. You may need to remove some burrs of the nut to make it fit.



If the threads of your clutch nut are still OK and goes on well I would make it decent and use it, it's probably better than the replica you ordered.

The central stud of the tool goes into the small clutchnut on the mainshaft, so is works on the bike, for working on the bench an old mainshaft in the vice with the nut can be used.

But it looks like your small clutchnut has lost its Original internal threads (5/16" cycle) so that won't work....

Good luck, Michiel

email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com

Hi

Yes a c-spanner for removal. You don't need the compressor tool for removal, just patience. I removed mine by placing my boot (work boot, reinforced sole and toe cap) firmly over the nut, then slowly undoing to release. A little awkward but with care worked out ok for me. No dramatic and hazardous nut flying across the place.

You'll need a new nut, but take care as I got a replacement part for mine which was a little rounded, but the replacement had the wrong thread, so I put the original back on.

Also take care with the six stubs on the clutch operating plate. The plate is quite thin and the studs can break free. One of mine did. I was able to get a local machine shop to fix this.

Here are some pictures:













Good luck

Richard

email (option): dickie.bobbie@hotmail.co.uk

I still have some of Rob Nortier's tools. Clutch spring compressor, clutch and cush nut tools. Work well with your standard ratchet or even better with my rattle gun
Email me off site, for UK and Europe. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com