Just wanted to find out thoughts regards making your own gaskets.
Most paper gaskets are anywhere between 10 and 15 thou, and require gasket cement either side to affect a good seal.
I have been making my own from a sheet of 1/16th cork.
These would include non critical gaskets such as A7 rocker covers, clutch and timing cover.
Monobloc float cover. B and M tappet inspection covers, sump plates, B31/33 rocker covers. ect Its a great material to work with when cutting out with the sissors, and it hole punches nice as well.
Cork is a time proven material for gaskets, but can be difficult to clean off.
Modern equivalent material seems to be cork impregnated with some type of rubber compound, and is expensive.
Keith A

email (option): keithatkinson@hotmail.com

Different materials for different sealing jobs - the engineering rule is to design the joint so it don't need a gasket, but if it does need one - use the thinness gasket possible.

The problem with many pattern gasket materials are that they are TOO THICK - as a result causing more problems as the sealing surface distorts, because the gasket allows it.

Cork tends to be used on tin chain-cases - often already warped beyond flat by years of bodgery.
I think the secret to stopping this particular problem is not so much the gasket, but not overtighting the screws and using loctite to stop the screws from dropping out?

Gasket materials need also to be surprisingly strong in compression, so they don't crush out from between the sealing face's.
I've tried various 'papers' instead of proper gasket paper (the beige stuff) - with very poor results - they tend to crush out from sealing surfaces.
I tried this idea, because i'm a tight yorkshireman, but mainly because i was cutting the gaskets on a laser and i could get the 'proper' material to lie flat (even after ironing!).

On a Cast Iron head/cylinder joint - silver paint is often enough to seal - far better than the asbesto's/copper composite gaskets often used.

The B50 set, seem to like 're-usable' thin copper gaskets on surfaces which usually need no gasket or only a paper gasket.
I question of sealing surface preparation i think .............?

There are some options with thicker gaskets made by the main gasket manufacturer in the UK...Unfortunately they only supply to the 'trade'...

I've made various gaskets over the years and have used cork as you have, sheets of 'Hallite', a commercially available gasket material and sheet rubber depending on application...

Generally, the gaskets for the models I run are available and at least before I retired I had ready access to the gasket manufacturer mentioned above, so I haven't made my own for many years now...

It's time consuming but I find it can be quite a relaxing pastime if you're in the right frame of mind!..(and have the correct tools to hand)

As you mentioned, frequently the joint can be improved by altering thickness and/or material spec..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Obtaining the various gasket materials used to be something you did via 'work' usually blagged as samples for testing, i would imagine he range of materials available via the interweb eliminates that problem.

Making gaskets, is surprisingly easy and as Ian says can be relaxing, finding various bits of tube to make into hole cutters, using compass and dividers (good for cutting as well) us of a certain age, long forgot we had (mine are from my ONC/OND/HND days!) using scalpel blades (model shop ...), etc. etc.

Even wood-pecking out copper gaskets is relatively easy and very satisfying.

Must admit, i still gum up primary cases with PU mastic though ...... probably why they leak!

Just keep that silicon stuff away from engines though - its taken the place of red hermatite for blocking oilways and things.

Hi. I have just made gearbox gaskets for my M20, I found using the old gaskets as template was better than using the casing, make sure all the surfaces are straight specially around threaded holes as the threads can pull stick up proud and leak,I just use a large drill bit to take it off by hand, I just smear a thin film of grease on the new gasket. as an apprentice in the garage I was told never to use sealer with new gaskets..

email (option): richard.a.yard@btinternet.com