After years of Japanese sports bike riding I've decided that I'd like something with a little more soul and character. I mused over Italian bikes from the 70's but decided that I don't need the trauma and would like to actually ride it further than the end of my road, then looking through old photos I saw one of my dad in the 50's on what I found out was a M20.
So can someone tell me if an M20 is a good starter bike for a movie classic bike owner. I've had a look around and have spotted a few in need of restoration ( what I can't do I'm happy to get a pro to do). I don't want something that comes out only to be polished but a bike that I can head off into the hills on, ride info work occasionally on and have something to hand to my kids.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated

email (option): Garethgcooper@btinternet.com

Hi Gareth..

In moving to a classic bike you have to appreciate that decades of developement have taken place since many of them were built...

This will become immediately apparent when you ride one and will represent somewhat of a culture shock initially.....

Just as with a modern bike, which 'classic' bike you ultimately select should really be determined by what you want to do with it...

For example,most British bikes were designed before the era of the motorway and are pretty unsuited to that environment...

You also have to think of the performance you want, the general soundness of the design and what is the availability of spares perhaps 50 or more years after the bike was manufactured...

There is a 'cottage industry' beavering away supplying spares and services for older bikes but availability varies, not just from make to make but across different models and time periods from the same manufacturer...

Also the larger manufacturers produced many more machines than some of the smaller ones and far more original used parts can still be found in that case..

The M20 is a very sound design, simple to work on and understand on the whole and when properly restored will give good service...

However, the old fashioned side valve design, whilst rugged, is low on power...Fine if you live in an area with plenty of A and B roads and you enjoy a 'leisurely' ride...Tele fork models are also considerably more comfortable than the girder for variants...

From BSA there is a similar but more powerful and fuel efficient model..the OHV B33...This shares the basic strong design of the M20 but is considerably faster and will return much better fuel consumption....

Also from BSA in the same period were the 500 and 650 twins...the A7 and A10...Again more power, different chassis choices but basically sound designs...

The quick answer to your question is that the M20 can give good reliable service and spares availability is relatively good...It's a question though of what you want/expect from your classic bike..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi Gareth
I was recently in the same situation as you, I was brought up on and have ridden jap bikes for over 30 years
Me and all my mates hated anything british, they all leaked and looked soooo old
But as the years passed and I approach fifty all jap bikes are starting to look the same with no soul, british bikes started to look cooler
So I have just bought a 1942 wm20, I was going to go for a matchless g3l because it had tele forks but changed my mind because if you want to sample an old bike I wanted to know what girder forks are like
Anyhow I have the bike and what's it like?
Superb!! I can't start it, it starts when it wants to, I can't change gear, it's on the wrong side, it's not happy going over forty, the girder forks are ........interesting. The brakes do actually work tho
So get one as soon as you can and enjoy, but keep a jap bike close by for those longer journeys
Best regards steve

email (option): S.johnson658@btinternet.com

The M20 is brilliant, but a tad slow.

I didn't pay much for mine, so treated it a bit harshly. I am more sympathetic(ish) now as the prices of certain bits and the bike itself are more costly.

They are relatively easy to work on and this forum is great for all the questions that you may have. Don't bother with a Haynes manual; it just doesn't cover a girder forked M20s in sufficient detail.

Bantams, C15, A10, T110, M20 that was the route I went. I use the T110 for long thrashings.

Must admit, I prefer pre-unit construction. In my opinion they look better.

Best of luck.

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

At the risk of being blown to smithereens on here might I suggest an old BMW airhead twin
They are easy to maintain have the requiste power and are very dependable,provided they are maintained properly.
Rgds
Hank

email (option): Webb.stash@mail.com

Another possibility is to get one of the new Royal Enfield Bullets. That way you get the feel and look of an old one but maybe get a little more reliability than a true old bike. Plus by the time you want to 'hand it on' to your kids it will be a 'classic' in its own right.

I agree with Hank's take on the older BM's.

email (option): cruiserchooserAThotmail.co.uk

I say go with the M20 Gareth.
It is my first classic and I've had it for...Oh god! 25 years.

As others have said they are simple and easy to work on.

['Another possibility is to get one of the new Royal Enfield Bullets. That way you get the feel and look of an old one but maybe get a little more reliability than a true old bike.']


I have a friend with two Indian Enfields and my M20 has been more reliable than the 'new' classics...and also more reliable than my 'modern' bike or my computer

The M20 is intrinsically reliable by virtue of its sound design and most reliability issues are the result of 'owner input' in the past or the opposite, owner neglect....

These past misdemeanors just need to be corrected and you will have a machine that can be relied on to do the job...

Also, a major part of the enjoyment of an old bike is the process of learning about it..

If you buy a project rebuilding it, getting it back on the road and running reliably is very satisfying as well as being a challenge...

If you choose to buy a bike that doesn't need that sort of input (BMW) your going to miss out on that and not learn very much...

I agree with Matty...If you want a classic accept it for what it is and go for a classic...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

The romance and novelty of owning a certain bike wears off when the bike does not go and you have to spend money on it. I own 11 bikes and having recently retired am considering down scaling and moving to a smaller place.

First to go will be my BMW airheads. I don't care for them much. Clunky, not fun to ride, parts are expensive and they have both given me problems.

Next to go will be my Morinis. They are really fun to ride but a little temperamental.

I have 3 BSAs. I will probably sell one. I enjoy the BSAs but spend more time on maintenance and rebuilding than on any other bike and rely on my lathe to do much of the work. I could not afford to farm this work out.

I will probably sell my Yamaha SRX600.

I will not sell my Yamaha SR500. This is motorcycling's best kept secret and it has soul.

email (option): pvlietstra@gmail.com

[' I will not sell my Yamaha SR500. This is motorcycling's best kept secret and it has soul.']

I rode a friends SR more than once and thought it was the nearest the Japanese ever got to the ride ('feel') and power characteristics of a British single...

Nice machine...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com