Now seriously getting into this project - despite initial depression......
The tin-ware is generally suspect Indian, but the major bits do seem to be British - though of a surprisingly low quality(war time?).
Sadly originality has gone out the window, so now the aim is for very usable representation of a period bike.
After chiselling grease/tar out of gearbox and finding out why the gears won't select (the tar/grease)am pleased to find it is in good useable condition - just the B/bearings need replacing, perhaps the main shaft sleeve bearing replacing and the ~1mm end-float sorting, so the question;
There is no obvious thrust washer controlling the main shaft end-float like later g/boxes - should there be one ?
If not, which end is best to shim it up from ?
My initial guess would be at the clutch end, so the shims take the load (and wear) when the clutch is operated - only concern is gear engagement.
Advice please?
email (option): GINANTONIK@TISCALI.CO.UK
Are you sure that all the washers are present around the drive side mainshaft bearing, I'm not familiar with the 3HW but I guess the bearing set up would be the same as the BSA with oil control washers around the high gear bearing. Another thing is the play acceptable and is controlled by the kick start ratchet instead of shims
email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com
Different set up to BSA, its sandwhiched between two b/bearings - the clutch thrust is taken by the sleeve-gear bearing - which is bloody annoying as i have a roller bearing the right size.
Does it matter - well yes, as the gear engagment may not be as positive as it should be with them sliding up and down the main-shaft, though a small amount never a problem.
As it happens, now i have the tar out of the bearings, the sleeve bearing is surprisingly good and the bearing at the k/start end is well knackered - with probably 0.5-1mm of end-float!
Together with thick, home/indian made gaskets it may be where the excess is coming from as there no obvious excessive wear marks?
i'll put a new bearing in the k/start end and re-check.
FRONT FORK LINKS - anyone with the correct dimensions (spindle center to center distance) for the top/bottom links - please?
i know mine are indian and have bought some T7/8/90 ones off ebay and the are shorter.
Exact distance between spindle centers for the bottom is 94mm or 3"11/16.
For the top links this is 86mm or 3"3/8.
email (option): tiger100@telenet.be
The Webb forks fitted to 3HW's are different to the pre war Triumph forks and the spindles are much longer. I have contact details for a man who makes spindles and headstock bearings for all girder Triumph models. Email me if you want them. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
Thanks for FORK info - anyone want some prewar T70/T80/T90 top fork links.....bugger!.
GEARBOX - end-float problem sorted;
In short, There cannot be a any end-float as the main-shaft is longitudinally located by the kick-start side bearing. There is so much side play in the bearing a previous owner had tried to take it up with a stack of shims - this is what threw me?
The set-up is the same as all pre-unit Triumphs, with minor differances - you can even use the same bearings.
In my case a double sealed RLS9-1-1/4 for the Sleeve bearing as the bearing is fitted from the primary chain-csae side unlike later triumphs - so oil lub will be minimal as theirs even an oil thrower thread on the main-shaft.
And an RLS6-2RS (with the seals removed) for the k/start end - simply because i have one.
You can even fit needle bearings on the layshaft if you use (pinned) thrust washers from the unit 650's - in my case, i'll leave the CI bushes in place.
The outer casing K/Start and G/Lever bushings need replacing - if only to reduce oil leaks - HAWKSHAW list the original CI ones - if not i'll have to machine up some bronze ones
Onwards ......
Well, that was an intresting 1/2hr going through past 3HW threads, looking for Bash-Plate info .....
Seems my 3HW has some 'history' on this forum !
Although not purchased via the infamous Dean the Bean, it is certainly the one returned as being dangerously repaired ........ or something.
For what its worth, I intend doing a proper job and despite the VERY dodgy welding/tubing, gearbox mount mod, et al. the tubing and cast lugs are in very good condition compared with much I have seen (owned and ridden!)so have made an alignment jig, chopped out the bad bits, made up new bits and the end result should be very sound - just need to TIG on the prop-stand mount (if I can get it working as it should - otherwise something else to make) and its off down to the blasters again - shame they do not do and appropriate military power colours - though they do a nice RN'sh blue ?
The entire g/box has been replaced by an excellent unit from France - may swap out all the new bits fitted to the original and need to check what gearing is fitted, but would be nice if it was T100 road gearing.
The forks have been replaced by NOS from Greece and once I sort the wheels out (oval and buckled !!!!) can start making some progress.
So like my 'granddads axe' (the one which has had three new heads and five new handles) it will be the same bike - but different!
Don't worry though guys, I wont be offloading it as soon as its built - the last pre-war bike I sold, I 'd only had it for ~15 years - I do tend to ride them.
Do I have to load into bucket-shop, or something, to post any pix of progress?
email (option): GINANTONIK@TISCALI.CO.UK
Well, though frame not finished decided to undo the bodge done to the gearbox mounts - easily enough with the equality of Indian welding (eek!).
And ..... my magnificent lovely g/box from france .....
Wont fit - to be more precise, none of the top gearbox mounting plates line up ........... bugger!
Seems that the gearbox is from one of the early triumph twins (TRW or T100) and the wider engine is not accommodated by, what I hoped would be a longer main-shaft (easily changed) but instead the gearbox casting is different ..... bugger, again!
Oh, well back to the original ... will do a traditional VMCC racing mod to stop the whole gearbox twisting under power, breaking the bottom mounting casting.
Drill the hole over-size and sleeve with steel tubing, but in this case incorporate spacers at each end to line up the engine/clutch/rear-wheel sprocket - instead of the indian welding, bodging ......
On the positive side - been offered loan of cuz Andy's 1938 Ariel RH if I don't get the 3hw done for my mate - when we do the Beamish in June.
Touch there was something wrong in your previous posts. A needle bearing in a pre 50th's gearbox is no go, the layschaft end is smaller then the later gearboxes.
Guy
N/B's do go into the early rigid G/box's - cos I ran them.
But I must admit I'm not certain which gear cluster as I ran everything from early CR to 5 speed clusters. To be honest the original CI bearings would probably been adequate.
Biggest problem was keeping the outer casings in one piece, due to torque.
Nowadays I would fit a 'torque-link' between the engine c/case and a bearing on the main shaft (as per B50/B25 etc.) to stop the g/box from being pulled towards the engine - but 20-30 years ago in the end I fitted a s/arm g/box.
Then the clutch kept dropping off and the m/shaft sheared ..................
(cured by a prototype Nourish main-shaft + commando clutch)
Anyway - made more progress on the 3HW
Lower frame rails 'slugged' and 'sleeved' - the latter to bring the tube diameter back up to std.
Was going to try 'leading' the joint (cannot stand filler) but cannot find my 'body-lead' - so sleeved it and used low melt braze - as opposed to Sif-Bronze#1 for the main joint.
Then to TIG the prop-stand brackets on and off to the sand-blasters.