I know paint is a well discussed issue here, but wondered if others were having the same issues as me.

I used a syncron cellulose paint, usually used for painting cars I think. It has around 10% matting agent and I used a good zinc type primer. I did all the proper stuff like rubbing down between coats etc.

I painted all the parts off the bike, however when assembling, many of the junctions where parts meet, or get bolted together, suffer local cracking or flaking. To be honest in reality, I understand unless you enamel and bake a part it's probably just something you just need to accept.

However how do you minimise it, and how do you rectify it. Just touch-up locally? I realise it's not supposed to look perfect, but I'd like it to look tidy at least.

Would be glad to hear other people's experiences.

Andy

I have found Cellulose is too brittle. Even 2 pack and powder coat can chip off at a later date when you try to remove something that has been bolted together for some time. I use Synthetic Polyurethane paint on MV's these days. It's generally a bit softer and less likely to chip. Ultimately though you will have to touch up here and there. I don't think I've ever assembled a bike without doing so........And avoid spills of modern petrol Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Good day.

I like two-stage urethane paints for almost all the auto painting I do. The finish is much more durable even in a satin or matte. I also have experiences some UV tarnishing with enamels.

My favorite method is to use a hard paint like POR-15, let it tack up, then paint my color on top of it. No sanding is needed in between coats as POR-15 grips nicely. Then a little wet sanding and the clear is put on. Finish with a nice buffing to remove the orange peel effects.

I've seen cracking in the paint when the primer and top coat have some chemical incompatibilities, are not quite dry, or there is surface contamination (oil, silica, dirt). I usually tack rag down my surfaces after sanding or blasting to help prevent issues. A good paint job is a lot of work but worth it in the end.

Cheers,
Justin

email (option): justininia@gmail.com

['Finish with a nice buffing to remove the orange peel effects.']

Not with a drab military finish I wouldn't have thought...Ian

You don't have to clear coat most paints for a straight matte finish but I have in the past just to make the finish more durable. My goal is usually a consistent appearance which is a little different than the "just get it painted" approach of the military painters (at least, the U.S. military painters I know).

All this talk of paint is making me want to straighten one of my fenders and put some green on it. :)

Cheers,
Justin

email (option): justininia@gmail.com