Hi All
I have a few questions I am hoping you maybe able to help me with.
My matchless G3L, since owned, has always wet sumped, I avidly drain the sump before start up and return the oil to the oil tank without any additional issues. I noticed yesterday whilst riding the bike a trail of smoke following me once the engine was ran for approx 10 minutes. I drained the sump again as there was a good dose of oil back in the sump. This is something I haven't experienced before with the bike and hoping you may be able to advise according. I am due to ride it to a show for the first time since owning it some 3 years so any advice would be greatly received.
P.s The oil return to the oil tank is good and constant, a little frothy, I am run it with SAE50
email (option): findingsteveo@hotmail.com
For it to be wet-sumping that much sounds like the pumps worn. I only drain a bike if it's been sat for a long time and a bit isn't going to hurt. The other thing to check is the breather, make sure it's not blocked or a pipe kinked, as this will cause pressure in the crankcases forcing oil into places it wouldn't go and causing leaks.
My 16H wet sumped even after I reconditioned the pump so I fitted a one-way valve. Now it's perfect and I don't even think about wet sumping or draining oil. I can tell straight away if the oil is circulating because of the oil indicator. I would never use a tap, it's an accident waiting to happen with my memory. Or someone could even turn it off when parked.
Here's a picture of the valve, it's on the top oil pipe screwed into the crankcase. You wouldn't know it was there unless I told you.
%%htmlItem_1%%
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Thanks for your reply.
The one way valves I think will be a must for me, as you have said you really do not notice it's there. May I ask where is the best place to pick up such a thing? I guess I am needing to research the thread requirements also.
Thanks again.
Steve
email (option): findingsteveo@hotmail.com
before you lay out any cash, once you have cleared the sump, when you park the bike try leaving it at TDC on compression stroke.
it'll cost you nothing to try.
It usually set sthe pump in a position wher eit does not pass oil.
I have 2 Matchless, never have trouble with wet sumping.
Also park it on rear stand not prop.
email (option): deadsheds [ at ] yahoo.com
Here is the ebay seller that sells these, however, if your pump is worn and not working properly it will need refurbishing.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400752247271
It can be fitted in-line with the connections provided or in the case of my 16H the thread is the same as the crankcase and screw straight in.
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Thanks both for your comments, Ken I shall give it a go.
I've had a good look over the engine and I have noted that the crank breather pipe was pretty much blocked, I'm thinking this is a big part of the bikes problem.
After running for 10 minutes I have a good oil return flow but approximately 30ml of oil was drained from the sump.
Steve
email (option): findingsteveo@hotmail.com
Other causes can be that there are holes in the oil filter housing allowing the oil to drain from the main oil tank into the filter housing and back down the return pipe.
The engine usually stops coming up to TDC so try getting the piston at TDC on compression, remove the oil pump end plate and keep trying the pump back in it until you can set it as far forward as it can go when the locating pin is in its groove.
If there is scoring around the oil passageways in the pump caused by something getting caught in it you can try Andrew Engineering, who I once discussed with them about making a slightly oversize pump with the ability to hone the housing to suit and this should remove any scoring. Either way it may be worth pulling the pump out to check for wear and the compatibility of the components as mixing early and late pump parts can cause premature wear.
The valves you can fit in the line work well at low rpm, however they restrict the oil flow when you need it most, at high rpm.
email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com
I suggest you fit a new pump and a new pin which are both available from Russell Motors before you do anything else. John
email (option): tinley@btinternet.com
After running for 10 minutes I have a good oil return flow but approximately 30ml of oil was drained from the sump.
Steve[/quote]
After running for a while there will always be some oil left in the sump, I think 30ml is quiet normal.
The oil return channel is not reaching entirely to the bottom of the sump.
%%htmlItem_1%%
Regards,
Peter
Thank you gents for you advise.
I think I will inspect the oil pump tonight, can anyone guide me on the removal and re fitting of it please?
My main concern initially was that after 10 minutes or so of riding it starts smoking and slowly gets worse, I was only riding slowly at low Revs but I put this down to the crank breather being blocked?
Since unblocking the breather I haven't chance to re test the bike but I am hoping this will render the bike at least rideable?
email (option): findingsteveo@hotmail.com
The guide pin could be worn causing less stroke of the pump. Pull that out first for inspection.
To remove the pump you need to remove both of the end covers by undoing the 4 small screws on the front pump cover (where the top end oil feed pipe screws to) and the little nuts on the rear pump cover on the opposite side of the timing cover to it, then there is a little screw below the cam cover, this is the guide pin, the other little screws near it are just blanking screws for the oil way drillings. Then you simply push the pump out from the front of the engine with a screwdriver. When replacing it make sure that you have the guide pin in line with the groove on the pump. It is a quick operation to do probably only taking about 10 minutes. Make sure that you drain the oil tank first though as it will want to come out of the oil ways as you are trying to assemble it
email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com