Hi Pat,
you would find MIG a better option, weld in a circular motion decreasing in diameter until you fill the hole .Then redrill the hole. MIG wire tends to be a bit harder than stick weld, so less chance of the hole wearing oval again.
I went the other way with a Dillion low pressure Oxy now called a DHC-2000.
Because of the way the premixed low pressure gas burns at the tip there is little to no secondary combustion accuring in the outer envelopr which means that you can weld anything without flux so you can get a really clean weld.
The only time I use flux is a tiny scrape on Aluminium rods to prevent the rod oxidising .
Some what similar to the zinc based rods ( Lumiweld etc ) when doing aluminium you have to dip the rod into the weld pool rather than melting the rod over the weld pool ( took a while to get used to doing that ).
Not cheap but worth a lot more than I paid for it.
As you already have a stick welder the gas would serve you lot better.
the hard bit is to stop making every thing from stainless as it makes stainless so easy to weld.
No I am not an agent, although I did meet the inventor way back in the 60's
Hi Pat,
I would go for gas, as Trevor says, if you can afford it I would go for a average amp unit,
You could end up doing bigger jobs!!!
cheers Dave.J.
For thick stuff use arc, for thin stuff use MIG, for every thickness and material use TIG and if you are an artist use oxy acetylene. As you already have arc I suggest you get a MIG set with a rechargable bottle, disposable are very short lived and therefore expensivein the long run.
If you have trouble with "blowing holes" in your work in thin stuff clamp a bit of sheet brass benether to suport the molten metal and disipate the heat which will allow you to "fiil in" any holes as they appear. essential for rusty panel work.
Good luck
Richard
Well, I really do not want to start an electric vs gas argument but things like building up a hole in a mudguard with an arc welder is not an easy task, even for a very experienced welder who knows exactly how much to preheat and exactly how much metal to lay down each pass exactly how far to hold the torch off, feed rates, gas flows etc,etc,etc.
The low pressure Dillion gun can actually weld onto a steel can without melting through it and can weld almost any metal with the operator controlling the process without having to work out all of the correct settings.
With a Dillion the only thing that changes is the size of the tip & the length of the flame, things which you can see as they are happening It is a lot ,lot, lot, lot more forgiving to the not greatly skillful than any arc process will ever be.
Now some one who welds every day or even every week will have little trouble sorting Migs out however for the occasional welder it is a lot different.
Once a month or so I light up the Dillion usually to weld a big hole in a lawnmower base.
I am not a regular welder so some of them are not pretty, but none have failed which is more then I can say for a lot of the attempts of the TIG weilding amateurs. ( I hope they were amateures ).
Every person I have loaned my kit to has ended up buying one because they are so easy to use.
If I was going to weld every day and make a profit out of it then there is no question, it has to be electric as it is so much faster but for difficult things the gas torch wins out every time.
For those of you who have no idea what I am talking about go to http://www.cobratorches.com and look at the videos.
As for certifications no idea over there.
Down here the only problem is geting the bottles home as OH&S will not allow them to the transpoerted in an enclosed vehicle and I drive a van
That looks a useful piece of kit .
I havent seen it for sale in the U.K though ..wouldnt mind one if so ?
As pointed out this is probably ideal for occasional users ..I can manage fine with standard Oxy / Acetylene by controlling the parameters & speed of travel , etc but would imagine there to be a big saving in gas ?