Where the magneto pinion oil seal goes in the timing case, it is too large. Seems I have read that some have glued it in. It is pretty loose, I can push it in with fingers and actually move it just a little. What would be good to glue it in place? How about JB Weld. I'm not sure JB Weld would stick to the rubber.
L.D.

email (option): ldj1002@yahoo.com

JB Weld would not be the way to go.

Assuming you have the correct seal, If you feel the seal is too loose a fit, clean the case and the seal and install with an application of a good automotive silicon sealer. Let the sealer set up and then install magneto.

email (option): teladelujo@msn.com

Thanks, Seal should be correct. I ordered it from a BSA parts supplier using BSA part#
OH, and also the seal is thicker than the recess it fits in. I have no idea if that will interfear with the pinion going down enough to seat on the taper.

email (option): ldj1002@yahoo.com

Hello

I had same problem. Hole was badly worn out, oval about 5mm to one side. I glued it in place with so called liquid metal, 2-component epoxy stuff. Works well already for 3 years.

Kalle

email (option): kalle.tikas@gmail.com

Thanks, Seal should be correct. I ordered it from a BSA parts supplier using BSA part#
OH, and also the seal is thicker than the recess it fits in. I have no idea if that will interfear with the pinion going down enough to seat on the taper.
[/quote]

Once your sealer has set up, install the magneto pinion on the mag shaft, then with the idler gear out of the gear train, spin the pinion gear to see if the magneto will turn easily. If the seal is so thick that it is compressing between the back of the pinion gear and the timing case causing binding, you may have a problem, but I think you will find that there is more space behind the pinion that it might appear.

You might also want to research magneto fitting and spacing on this forum as I'm sure I've read other posts over the years about correctly fitting the magneto on the engine....though not directly answering your question, here are a couple of interest:

http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1252783&cmd=show

http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1249865&cmd=show

http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1223530&cmd=show

Kalle reports good results mounting a mag seal with the use of a metal mender such as JB Weld as you had originally proposed. I would say use the more easily removed silicon-based sealer first, then use the metal mender as a next step if needed.

email (option): teladelujo@msn.com

I did put the pinion on and with idler removed the mag turned free
Thanks
L.D.

Thanks, Seal should be correct. I ordered it from a BSA parts supplier using BSA part#
OH, and also the seal is thicker than the recess it fits in. I have no idea if that will interfear with the pinion going down enough to seat on the taper.
[/quote]

Once your sealer has set up, install the magneto pinion on the mag shaft, then with the idler gear out of the gear train, spin the pinion gear to see if the magneto will turn easily. If the seal is so thick that it is compressing between the back of the pinion gear and the timing case causing binding, you may have a problem, but I think you will find that there is more space behind the pinion that it might appear.

You might also want to research magneto fitting and spacing on this forum as I'm sure I've read other posts over the years about correctly fitting the magneto on the engine....though not directly answering your question, here are a couple of interest:

http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1252783&cmd=show

http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1249865&cmd=show

http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1223530&cmd=show

Kalle reports good results mounting a mag seal with the use of a metal mender such as JB Weld as you had originally proposed. I would say use the more easily removed silicon-based sealer first, then use the metal mender as a next step if needed.[/quote]

email (option): ldj1002@yahoo.com