Hi all
Not sure is I have a problem with the regulator hand I hope you can help
Bike not been charging for some time now, I tested the dynamo and this seems to be ok,
I have fitted and new regulator and getting a good charge back to the battery now however the bike amp meter is saying well over 8v when riding infact almost off the scale, is this correct as I have never seen it working or is there to much charge going in ?

Regards

Carl

email (option): carl.chezz@cwgsy.net

Hi Carl...What type of regulator do you have fitted and what is the condition/age/type of battery and is it flat or charged...?...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

HI Ian

The regulator is a repro one from C & D Autos same as what should be fitted
Battery is new and about 3/4 charged , I have just done a test with multi meter across the battery when bike is running and it seems to be butting 8.5 volts in with a good rev of the bike, But not sure when the cut off should come in though

Regards

Carl

email (option): carl.chezz@cwgsy.net

Carl,
These cheap regulators are not a lot of good, most i see are like yours and boil the battery. The idea is that the cut out part of it opens at low revs and stops the battery from discharging through the dynamo via the brushes. The regulator part of it should regulate the charge as the battery gets fully charged. This is the fault with these foreign MCR2s, What i suggest you do is charge the battery to fully charged then fit it to the bike. A fully charged battery will only show a very little charge if at all any, when you put the lights on you should see a good discharge at idle speed, as you raise the revs the ammeter should balance out. Your regulator may still be a good one as your battery is not yet fully charged, that is why Ian was asking about the state of your battery.

Hope this helps
Tim W

email (option): t.j.walker@btinternet.com

Yes I had to bin one of those replica regs on a friends bike. No matter how I adjusted it. I used an original one I happened to have spare.

I assume you don't have a working Lucas regulator or you would have fitted it...I would recommend you bin the Indian repro regulator for the reasons indicated in the last two posts and fit an electronic one...

'Manortec' regulators seem to be frequently recommended by forum contributors...

If you do go down that route you have to stipulate at the point of purchase whether you want a positive or negative earth unit...

When fitting electronic regulators and to avoid damaging/scrapping the unit, read and then follow the fitting instructions TO THE LETTER!....

You should also fit a system fuse if you don't already have one...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Hi Guys

I will try reconnection the original regulator I have and see if it is working now I have given it a clean,Is there any way to test them

Regards

Carl

email (option): carl.chezz@cwgsy.net

The BSA service sheets have a good deal on testing these regs. Its too complicated to put in this post but if you don't have them I can email them or the Lucas notes to you.

HI Keith

If you could email to me would be great
carl.chezz@cwgsy.net

Regards

Carl

email (option): carl.chezz@cwgsy.net

email sent!

Been looking at some info today and all the sheets ref + earth ,my wm20 is - earth
Question is should D & F from the dynamo still go to D & F on the regulator or should they be the other way with it being - earth ?

Regards

Carl

email (option): carl.chezz@cwgsy.net

D and F from dynamo still go to D and F on the regulator. Incidently I thought all wm20s where neg earth?
See wiring diagram in technical info on this website.

Pos or Neg earth.

Recommended. Fits inside a Lucas reg box.

http://www.manortec.co.uk/dvr.htm


Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

All old Lucas equipped bikes are positive earth (negative earth came in with alternators)and it is important to realise that an ammeter can only show amps and a voltmeter volts!
Richard Smith

Careful Richard.

Carl, I was wondering what "sheets" you are referring to? Actual M-20 wiring diagrams or the papers which came with your repro cutout? The 16H is most definitely negative ground and all diagrams I have seen for the m-20 are negative ground also. I'm simply curious, not an expert with the Prince of Darkness electrical systems whatsoever.

Got really confused now. My M20 is positive earth as is my Triumph T110, which has an alternator.

I didn't think it mattered.

Help!!!!

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Your M20 was originally neg earth. Pos earth came in for a period during the 50's-60's. It won't really matter as long as you polarise/flash the dynamo accordingly. Or you can easily change it back if you haven't got an electronic regulator already fitted. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Ron

Got a solid state regulator in the old lucas case on the M20.

My bigger concern is the T110, which has an alternator, solid state regulator, recifier and zenor diode (electronic ignition too). I recently fried a stator and wanted to eliminate electrical problems versus mechanical problems (i.e. rotor mis-alignment etc..).

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Hi Pat,

You do not really need solid state regulator, recifier and zenor diode..
All you need is an "All in one" alternator Regulator,
And it does all the work for you..
I fitted one to a Triumph Thunderbird T120 of a buddy,(Pos eath)
With a 12V gel battery, and it works great.

You only need a switch to cut off the battery power
From draining beck through the rectifier. (It takes few days..)

Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

Hi Noam

Do you mean a switch between the battery and the all in one regulator/rectifier that you switch off when you park up?

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Hi Pat,
Yes,
Generally, a switch to disconnect the battery from the regulator/rectifier
When you park.
It is kind of what the cut-off does automatically on the mechanic dynamo regulators.

The regulator/rectifier does have a minor trickling back through the diodes,
So when parked for few days, it would eventually drain the battery.
It doesn't have to be a separate switch.
It can be integrated in the key switch on the Triumph.

I got one BSA with the MTML solid-state regulator,
But on the other WM20 I use an "Alton" alternator.
As the M20 does not have a switch, I integrated an old push-pull switch
Into the horn bracket, so it would not stand out.
When I leave the bike parked, I push it in, to disengage the batt (+)

Last Friday I went to the "Classic vehicle" meeting and forgot to shut it off.
When I noticed, 2 days later, the battery was almost completely flat.
But it charged right up at the next ride.

Cheers,
Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com