Fitted a 10 amp two wire Wassell stator to my Lucas rotor. Took 20 thou off the rotor just to be sure I had at least 8 thou clearance.

Rode from Sawbridgeworth to Helmsley (230 miles) seemed to be charging all the way until I noticed it stopped charging!

Took the primary chaincase off and guess what, the worst burnt out stator I have ever seen. Not just one hot spot burn out, but the whole bloody thing.

Any one had any problems with these stators? I guess it is hard to prove that the clearance was OK, though the groves on the exposed metal bit of the stator are not scratched.

Any ideas more than welcome.

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

The Wassells stators are made in India and are the same type as used on the new Enfields. they never normally give any problems. Are your main bearings ok? You normally have to try them for movement with a tyre lever, as even the slightest play may allow the rotor to touch the stator. In all the times I worked on Triumphs at Greenlooms Classics who specialised in Triumph twins I never had to machine anything off any rotor to get the clearance and never had any issues with them burning out unless the main bearings had started to have play in them. When you are checking the clearances,the resin encapsulating the stator coils can lead you to believe that you have insufficient clearance so there is only need to check the clearances where the coils actually sit and if there is insufficient clearance elsewhere it is usually just the resin and this can be filed down a fraction or just left to wear itself down. Do you have one of the solid state regulator rectifiers or separate Zener diode and rectifier? I prefer separate ones because they seem to be more resilient and if any of them fail you can change just the one component and also the damaged component tells you which of the components was at fault, which you can't tell with the sealed units.
I have two genuine stators for sale if you need a new one,mine is the early type hexagonal shape one and the other one is also for the larger, deeper rotor too. .

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

talking of triumphs can anyone tell me the differents in a triumph T100 and a T100SS thanks roger

T100, 500CC. T110, 650CC. That's for a start. Apart from that, the T110 had different cams, and a few other engine bits. Similar paint jobs, dis-similar top speeds.

T110 started production in 1953, and finished in '61. T100, started in '39, then was in production until '73, in various guises, always a 500cc.

The Triumph T100, has nothing to do with what people are now calling the Triumph Bonneville T100, which is neither a Bonneville, or a T100. That'd be like calling a Walt Disney drawing, a Da Vinci. Both good in their own right, but shouldn't be confused.

email (option): duncanfairley@btinternet.com

probably shagged mains, probably more than likely.
Any detectable movement on Trimph twin drive mains means instant replacement needed.
Bet theres multigrade in the tank too?

and why on earth did you machine the rotor?
rotor /stator clearance needs to be 6-8 thou if I remember correctly.

probably that was a contributing factor.

Can't say I agree with what you are inferring regarding oil Ken...

Multigrade oil will have no detrimental effect on the mains at all...I've run Triumphs and other British twins on this oil for many years in total...

I had a new T140 in 79.. That ran on multigrade (as specified) and it was essentially the same engine as earlier Triumphs apart from the crankcase construction....

Last time I enquired Morris's Oils were still recommending multigrade for engines with white metal big ends...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I've machined rotors in the past with no problems.

Surely machining the rotor will give more clearance than 8 thou and much less chance of hot spots on the stator.

Also, it was charging very well despite taking 20 thou off.

What I cannot understand is that there seems to be no scoring on the exposed metal bit of the stator, just burnt out resin all around it.

I agree with Ian, done huge mileages on multigrade C15s, A10s, T110 and M20.

I do confess to having a timing side bearing go on the A10, but spitfire cam may not have helped.

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Hi Pat,

I don't think that the problem has anything to do with machining the rotor.

It sounds more like an electrical problem rather than a mechanical one:
A problem with mixing (+pos) and (-neg) body components,
(Or connecting the battery the other way round)
Or a failure of the system to disperse the over charging power output
Or something of the kind.
With no mechanical evidence on the components, it sounds like
It fried itself to death.
I would not be surprised if you find out soon that your battery also
Can no longer hold charge, even in a good system, as result of this ride..

Good luck,
Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

mmmmm yerrss
multigrade v mono the endless debate.

changed far too many, [dozens] of failed multigrade mains. Triumph and Norton back in the 70's/80's; I have always run all my singles on mono, mains have been in for 30 years.

I go with what works trouble free for me.

chacun a son gout as they say

Hi Noam

I must admit that I do not really understand electrics.

However, am I right in assuming that a rotor and stator giving AC output is a simple charging mechanism. In that if it is not attached to anything it will not burn out (in some way the oil in the primary chaincase is the coolant?). There are no clever diodes or switches to turn its charging mechanism on or off.

The bits that "boil" are the battery, rectifier and regulator (or any combination of the three). The Zenor diode's job is to take heat out of the system to protect the battery, rectifier and regulator.......is the diode's job to take heat out of the alternator too (i.e. stator)?

It woul;d be good to understand this.

Thanks

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com