Hi Stuart..If the bike was complete and in one piece when you got it then you know pretty much everything fits together OK...
In that case I usually start by stripping and painting the frame and engine/gearbox plates...
With these painted and assembled you can slowly build up the bike as you complete other parts. Which parts you tackle first then depends on the most logical build up 'sequence'..Personally I usually build up the engine and gearbox after the chassis...
When you identify jobs you can't do yourself get those off to the appropriate repairers so they don't hold you up later...
If the bike came to you as a 'basket case' or with a lot of parts either missing or beyond restoration (and thus requiring replacement) then the only sensible plan is to clean up what you have without painting it etc., source the parts you need and then do a 'dry build' to ensure everything fits correctly, is in good condition and so on....
Then strip it all down, carry out all the cosmetic refinishing and build it all up again....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Congratulations, what a great find!
Looks sound and mostly there, please keep us posted on your progress; it's always great to see these machines being brought back to life.....(living vicariously)!
email (option): teladelujo@msn.com
What is the point of that?...As noted the wheels need rebuilding and it's already got the wrong engine fitted and a number of other parts missing so isn't a standard machine. It hasn't even got the original or correct paintwork as it's a WD machine.
It will also probably need an engine and gearbox overhaul, mag and dynamo rebuild, new wiring, new battery, new tyres, saddles, possibly brake shoes, wheel bearings, steering head bearings etc. etc. just to make it roadworthy...
You'd just as well do the whole job and preserve the bike properly...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Nice find Stuart
One thing I've found with these old bikes is don't throw old parts away, you'll be suprised what people can repair or even use as a pattern. I would get your wheels rebuilt, then you know they're good. You could spend ages trying to find another pair costing more money on the project. Good luck with it, that'll be a lovely bike when you've finished
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Hi Stuart...Brace yourself...The wheel rebuild with tyres, tubes, brake shoes and wheel bearings (if needed) is one of the more expensive jobs...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Nice to see you on the forum, Stuart. There is a wealth of knowledge here and it's probably the friendliest and most helpful old bike forum anywhere.
My 16H has done a lot fewer kms thn RvM's but I was able to clean and replace the original bearings that Norton installed in December 1939.
The BSA boys should be jealous of our easily available metric wheel bearings.
{'The BSA boys should be jealous of our easily available metric wheel bearings'}...
Only when buying the front ones...
...There are other compensations though...
....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Hi all !
Ian- Braced and position assumed !
Rob- I've removed the wheel bearings and will replace with sealed ones as they have a lot of play in them ! Is the felt washer still required if using sealed units?
Horror- Any year Commando for the brake shoes ? the rear sprocket is badly worn so ill be after a new drum also !
Rik- i hear you about the forum, i've been reading thru posts and have'nt read a bad word yet! (nice change)
Sounds like a lot of you had a good run at Normandy, the pictures are great ! (even the BSA ones)
Cheers Stu
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email (option): stuartcameron66@hotmail.com
Those wheel might not be that bad once the dirt has been cleaned off. As long as they're not rusted though anywhere or too thin, but the front one does look very pitted. Go over them with some wire wool and parafin and with a coat of paint they could be fine. (But it is hard to see from here ) That's if you're doing it back to WD spec
The shoes from any year Commando with a drum rear brake will fit. Burton Bike Bits sell 16H rear drums but they're expensive. A quick search on ebay has found this one but still not cheap, but it does say made in England. But as you're in Australia it might be worth seaching for one there to save the postage.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E2-463-NORTON-ES2-16H-18-REAR-WHEEL-BRAKE-DRUM-SPROCKET-43T-UK-MADE-/371023914040?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item5662bfa438
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Tim
I will definately measure offsets before dropping off wheels!
Lex (from here) alerted me to the "butted" spokes and how hard they are to get so hopefully i can save the existing ones, which of course means that i'll be restoring back to WD !
The more time i spend on here the more i'm liking green !
I'll just tell the rivet counters my civvie forks were a "one off" for a general
Stu
email (option): stuartcameron66@hotmail.com
Hi Stuart, glad to see you're making progress
A couple of things I've noticed, are you sure this is a 1941 WD frame..? What's the number? The forks are definitely civvie with the rubber mounted handlebars, large side damper knob amd brake drum on the right. This might make routing the speedo cable difficult as it's on the far left for the WD set-up. The frame is earlier than 1941 as it doesn't have the sidestand lug and the 8" headlight would be on an earlier bike too. None of this will make any difference to putting it together but it would be good to know what the bike is.
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Hi Horror
That's interesting, Rik thought it to be C4393808 contract 7353 ....I'm a long way off putting finishing details on anything 
Thanks Ron, pm sent !
Cheers Stu
Oh Rik, i held you on such a high pedestal, 6 numbers out !
You did send me the contract card, and no i didn't check it 
but i would have before getting numbers made !
Thanks for all the input guys, really appreciate it !
Cheers Stu
email (option): stuartcameron66@hotmail.com