Some say you don't need it, but any piece of soft felt 2 - 4mm will do; punch out a disc of about 15mm, and a hole of 4mm, and slide it on the push rod before putting on the cover
Hans, it's a good idea to grease that mechanism as that assembly doesn't see much oil and if the bike isn't ridden for some time condensation can rust these items.
It was an old trick to use grease in the gearbox, but in colder climates it took too long for the grease to do its job, and wear of the parts occurred. I once got a gearbox that was filled to the brim with hardened grease, took several weeks and a bucket full of petrol to get it disassembled. But as far as oil is concerned: NEVER EVER use doped oil, it eats the bushes
When I got my bike it was also packed with grease (mind you the gearbox wasn't working - the pawl was worn and one of the bearings was rumbling).
I don't think they are supposed to be like that. I cleaned it all out and use EP90, though this is probably on the thick side for short runs.
Kind regards
Pat[/quote]
Pat EP (Extreme Pressure) oils contain additives that are harmful to bronze. I would drain it out and refill with the correct SAE 50. Even SEA 90 would be more favourable than EP 90. Ron
It is best to grease the gearchange ratchet assembly..and particularly the gear change return springs.
This should not be confused with running the box as a grease filled box...They weren't designed for that.
Just smear the components of the ratchet assembly lightly with grease at assembly....As noted this assembly can suffer from the effects of condensation in the box, particularly if used for frequent short runs...
Ditto Rons comments on hypoid gearbox oils...they are unsuitable for these old boxes..I run either a straight 40 or 50 engine oil as specified...There's no real reason to change that specification...Ian