Took some time to examine the oilpump on my M21 today. It has a slight leak in the ball-valve at the bottom. Not a lot but when I suck on it (tastes great by the way! )there is some air passing though it. My thinking is that this will cause wet sumping?
I'm thinking that it is the ball not seating quite properly. Is there a way to repair it? There is no rust, nicks or scratches to the balls surface as far as I can see.

Also; any thoughts on how to go about to fix this calamity of a disassembley? http://www.flickr.com/photos/bohuslan/11762836266/in/photostream/
I have ever only worked on bikes that have hoses and clamps before...

regards,

simon

Try getting a couple of new balls, one of which stick on the end of an arc welding rod by touching it on there with it switched on and let the rod glow red with the ball touching an earth, then with some fine grinding paste lap it in a little and then thoroughly wash it out with petrol, making sure that it has an even seating, similar to when you are lapping in a valve. Then when you are satisfied it is seated put the new ball in, make sure the little circlip is in there to stop the ball going into the pump. It would be worth reseating the ball in the timing cover at the same time. Due to the shape of the housing it's not really practical to tap the ball into the seat, for fear of distorting the housing.
One question to ask yourself is why there is an excess of oil getting to the pump, is the ball valve in the timing cover leaking? Or is there damage in the pump itself?

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Thanks Dave,

I'll try that. I have plenty of bearing balls lying around and with some luck some of them might fit.
The ball in the timing cover seals up nicely so I am going to leave that one as it is. At this stage I do not know if the bike is wet sumping since I bought it in boxes. But I'm guessing it might do that.

(And since I bought it in boxes it wasn't me that cut the oil lines in the picture during diassembley by the way...)

/s

THE BALL VALVE IS AFTER THE PUMP SO NOT MUCH USE. MOST OF THE LEAKING IS BETWEEN THE GEARS AND END PLATES SO POINTLESS ANYWAY! Sorry caps lock on again!

email (option): ljvbekkum@hotmail.com

The timing cover anti drain valve is 'downstream' from the oilpump so has no effect on leakage past the pump itself but serves only to contain any leakage....

Oil leaking through the pump gears can reach the crankcase by two possible routes..
Through the base plate of the pump via the oil return pick up pipe and additionally, through the pump gears and into the crankcase via the timing gear/big end oil feed.

That is the reason for having two anti drain valves...The one in the pump baseplate blocks the oil return pick up pipe and the one in the cover is placed between the pump and the rest of the 'downstream' oil feed system....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Great! Thanks a lot.

I now sent him an email asking about the oil pipes. But is there bu the way no way of fixing them instead of buying replacements?

And thanx to several people for input on the oilvalve!

/simon

Hi Simon...Note also the oil pump should turn freely by hand...It will need looking at if it doesn't...
Also replace the pump to crankcase gasket when you refit the pump.....Smear the gasket lightly with a little grease before fitting...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I now throw away the original oil pump bolts and use allen bolts of same length these have the heads drilled for a lock wire.If your engine is apart and you are rebuilding it fit the oil pump drive into timing side case then fit pump with new gasket then the allen bolts these can be tightened slightly but on final tightening I also turn the drive spindle to make sure the pump is not being distorted and still turns over easily if it is tight I back of the allen bolts till drive turns nice and free.This is done before the crank is fitted but suppose you could do the same with the worm drive pinion on crank removed.allen bolts make it easier also to remove /refit pump.

Hi Ian,

The oil pump is in good order. Revovles nicely when turned by hand and has virtually no signs of wear to the gears at all. Just the mentioned ball valve that does not close completely.

/simon

Also have a look at the Technical Section: "Mounting the oil pump"

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet'dot'nl