I have lost so many of these over the years, the lanes of wiltshire must be full of them, that I now make them out of a bit of 10mm hex bar, which is as near as dammit for rivet heaven, then at the end I machine off a bit off the thread and drill it so I can get a small R clip in.
Hahaha Ken, that is exactly what I told Ron when he asked me!!! only mine are scattered over Holland, Belgium and France.
I also started to drill the newer type battery terminals, so I would not loose the battery aswell!! (with the slide on terminals) also lost many an oil cap, and the whole r/h leg soaked in oil, bet you don't get that on an M20!!!
Cheers Ken. That 7/8" is a big help. Why on Earth would they have had an odd hex size though? Makes sence for it to have been a standard size to use what was in the tool kit Ron
Are the battery carriers a Lucas part, as per the Norton and BSA front covers ? Those clamps seem to be threaded 0BA (25,4tpi) If the original Matchless bolts had standard 0 BA hexagons, they would be 0.413" / 10.49mm
Ah I think you might have hit the nail Rik. I think the three Matchless's that I have here at present have standard 1/4" BSF screws/bolts which are easily interchangeable with 0BA. I think our best bet is to make them from standard 7/16" hex with a BSF thread. At least they will look correct. Trouble is there is no information on these in the parts list. Ron
1/4" BSF is pretty slack on a OBA thread...It may even be one of the reasons they keep dropping off...I'd go with O BA personally...A tap can be bought very cheaply in that size...Ian
for things like the pie crust oil and fuel caps on all my bikes I use those chain and spring gizmos that were once common on Triumphs and the like
I think, but will check , I used a 5/16 a/f spanner on those bolts. he spanner size seems to be related to some quirk of hex bar sizes, like brass hex bar seems to always have odd sizes?
I have an 0BA tap and die Ian. But I honestly can't distinguish what the thread is in the trunion. a 1/4 bsf and an 0BA tap feel the same when screwed in. Probably a case for loktite. Don't say it couldn't happen to an M20 though. My acorn nuts were just about to drop off last Friday.....OOOWWWW Matron!
Hi Ron..Find a bit of small diameter rubber pipe that is a snug fit over the 'U' stud thread..Fit a short length on each threaded part after you have tightened the acorn nuts...No more problems....Ian
Yes I've seen that done and thinking along those lines also. One nut was on by about three threads the other one wasn't far behind. I used to have a few of these (from you I think) but none know!
As Lex said. we have a definitive drawing for the Matchless bolt. Which has a 1/4 26tpi thread and a 3/8" hex. Just waiting for Dave to stop lounging around in a puddle under his step son's car Ron
I push a couple of bits of black tube on the thread ends. It's impossible to tighten the acorn nuts hard as the whole thing distorts. With the tube on, finger tight is enough.
for whats it worth this far on in the thread and because I clambered over all the junk to get to them......
first the bolt I made with the safety clip in, mine is 1/4 BSF because that was what the trunnion I had was tapped. Also its easier to find a 1/4 BSF screw that long in a hurry than it is an 0BA when it falls out.
second is the chain gizmo I use on piecrust fuel and oil caps.
I use wire on several bits that are prone to loosen on my Matchlesses; a couple turns of copper wire around the knob of the chaincase cap to frame or footrest; I also solder a small knob onto the bottom banjo nut of the carb so I can wire it.
sump and oil tank drains are also wired.
If that BSA U clamp were mine I'd just drill a 1/16 hole through the end of the thread and use a split pin