Seasons Greetings All:

I picked up a 1944 WD as a retirement project and will admit to be being a bit of a novice. I will appreciate your patience and any wisdom you care to share. The kickstart motion binds at a couple points and makes a God-awful clanking when you force it through. I have removed the outer gearbox cover and can see no issues with the spring or quadrant. I opened the clutch covers and the clutch seem to travel free although it looks like it is missing two springs and studs. The kickstart does travel without issues when the clutch is engaged.

What would you learned folks suggest. Time to open the transmission? Perhaps call an exorcist?

Many Thanks, Barry B

email (option): bcubed77@comcast.net

Hi Barry..Is it an M20 you have or another WD bike?....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Sounds like it could be a loose cush drive nut? Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Ian:

It is a 1944 WM 20 with a 1943 engine/. I apologize for my lack of precision - I probably should also have used the term "gearbox".

Thanks Again, Barry

email (option): bcubed77@comcast.net

It's confusing when you say your clutch is missing two springs? These should have a single spring clutch. Never the less. With the clutch cover now removed. Slowly kick the engine through compression whilst watching the cush drive on the end of the engine crankshaft. If the nut is loose or the spring is weak or broken, the cams will clatter over the top of each other and you will not have proper motion of the engine.

Or I wonder if you are missing a couple of the studs that hold the clutch pressure plate. I doubt the clutch will work properly if so, especially if they are next to each other.

There is good information on the technical page. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Ron:

I am able to turn the outer nut by hand. If this is the cush nut, just how tight should it be? I have ordered the DVD though this site but it has yet to arrive. Many Thanks! Barry
Just saw your latest. Will try your suggestion and you are correct about the disk nuts-fortunately they are notadjacent. Another fix needed. Thanks

email (option): bcubed77@comcast.net

I would say that is your problem. That nut should be done up very tight. I am selling the correct tool for this nut on behalf of Robb Nortier. But you can use an ally or brass drift. I put loktite on the thread first, as the centrifugal rotation has a tendency to undo the nut and you will lose drive to the engine. Again more info on the technical page by Hans Muller. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I think it could be wear on the kickstart pinion, if the cover is off look to see if there is any wear to the teeth on the pinion, the quadrant is usually ok. If the pinion is worn, as a temporary fix if you remove the pinion and grind down the unworn section of the gear to the same level as the worn section it should work again for a good while. I say to check this first as it costs nothing to try and is usually the reason for the kickstart jamming especially when you first try to kick it over. You should remove the primary chain to see if it is the box that is causing the problem in the first instance.

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Ron:

You sir are a genius! I just went and hand tightened the nut and sure enough the clanking is gone and the kickstart travel is much improved. I am interested in the tool you suggest for this nut and please let me know how to go about purchasing one. With that in hand and a little loktite I may be in business.

I'm guessing that I'll need need to get after the clutch problem next and probably will be in contact for the other tools after we get by the Holidays.

My sincere thanks and best wishes for the New Year! Barry

email (option): bcubed77@comcast.net

Hi Barry..You should tighten the crankshaft nut all the way until it goes 'solid' against the crankshaft sleeve and then knock it up tight. If you want to use it there is a tabwasher for the crankshaft nut..It's a BSA part but to be honest, I never use them myself!

Once locked up tight, slowly turn the engine over with the kickstart.
As it comes up to compression one 'cam' on the crankshaft shock absorber should rise no more than a third of the way up the adjacent cam before the engine goes through compression and turns over...

Is your clutch the one with a 'top hat' cover over it and a large central spring or one with six smaller springs and a nut and locknut fitted on each spring stud?

The 'single spring' clutch is the one used by the military..The '6 spring' clutch is a post war BSA clutch from civilian models...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Barry I'll check my stock of Robb's tools tomorrow and let you know.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Ron, I would also be interested in the output shaft nut tool and the Clutch nut tool. I already have the single spring clutch spring compressor...and it works fine.
Pls PM on my Email..

Rgds Dave

email (option): d.weston@virgin.net

Emails sent. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com