Hello
Can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier of handlebars for my 1935 R35, they need to have the slots for the internal twist grip.
Thanks Darren
The BSA parts book shows 7/8" Handlebars for the R35 in both slotted & non slotted.
They would be the same twist grips & slots as my J35-12 although bar shape may be different.
I'm surprised Peter has none as I thought he kept a good supply of the bars & twist grips.
the ones he supplied me were very good although nothing came chromed.
I would cut slots & holes myself into a set of correct shaped bars if I had to do it again ..
Just incase you need the specs or for anyone else interested here's what came sketched on the paperwork with the bars & grips I got from Cornucopia.. ( I didn't draw it, I notice the measurements don't coincide with the drawing in some places).
before chroming & during the "test assembly" it needs 2 small oval cable exit holes underneath between the bar clamps.
Also yet another small hole each end for the end caps retaining grub screws.
Lex
It wasn't actually called that it's just that the 1935 R4 & R5 models were called R35-4 & R35-5 .... Like the J35-12
after that they stopped including the year in the model name so 1936 it was just R4, R5, J12 ETC ...
Thanks Fred and Lex,
Mine is a R35-17 twin port.
I have the twist grips , thanks to a forum member.
It was just the handlebars I'm after, why would you suggest cutting the slots and holes yourself Fred? Was there an issue with them fitting?
Where did you buy the cables from Fred if you don't mind me asking
Thanks Darren
Hi Darren, I didn't know the slots or holes position when I did mine until I bought some already slotted. now I have a complete set to copy I would make quite a few of the parts myself. I remember the pre slotted bars being fairly expensive & add on the time it takes to get them chromed & the cost & it's just far more attractive to me to cut into some chrome ones. The only tiny area where unchromed steel would be exposed if I cut all the holes on an already chromed set of bars would be the cable exit holes & painting the edges of these holes would sort it.
I keep all the cable sizes & nipples ETC & make my own cables as I simply don't trust other people's. .. Also i never have to worry about finished length as they are always perfect length.... AND ..I saw a guy solder a nipple on one while chatting in the workshop behind a dealer once & he didn't splay the end of the cable before soldering so rather than the solder lasting years under compression, it was just a lump round the cable which would likely fail, im sure most are done properly but if I do it myself there's no doubt.
Im sure most here know about cables but worth mentioning is something a friend of mine once said, a nice description of the way it works is imagine putting your hand through a letterbox & grabbing an Orange &;then trying to pull it back through. hahaha