How far should I ride on these initial break-in runs, today I managed to ride it 14 miles with a rucksack loaded with spanners, sockets and screwdrivers, just in case.
Is it a case that you ride it as far as you dare, or should I start off with short runs and increase slowly, My clock has registered 34 miles at the end of play today and the weekend is looking promising to get out a bit more, but want to ensure that what ever I do, is right for the bike.
Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Hi Julian...If you are happy the bike is now set up correctly you can do as many miles as you like...If not, ride it, then make adjustments and then ride it some more to test the results...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I usually do an oil change with that mileage. It's the time when there will be bits of metal getting pumped round and I like to get them out. Then I do the same at about 100 miles, 500, then 1000. It should be run in by then

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

One bright spark on this forum said of a freshly rebuilt M20 engine " Just ride it like you stole it" We haven't heard from him in a long while.....Shame

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

well he is still riding it as if he stole it should be somewhere between India and Australia by now and doesn't have time to post messages on the forum or a internet connection

email (option): roger.beck@node6.com

Thanks Horror,
The BSA books say to change the oil at 250 miles, but I was thinking that it wouldn't do it any harm to change it now, as although it only states 34 miles, it has had quite a bit of standing time running and I can see that the oil.
I need a funnel to get the oil out of the tank, as I only have a very large funnel that can't get in the gap, will sort it out today then give it another run as the weather is okay today.

I have also read some peoples comments about racing these rebuilt engines, but I have to say I have begun to quite enjoy the slow life and the bike seems to be allot happier with slow and gentle approach, my only concern is overheating but at least this time of year aids the running in period a little.

What sort of rough mileage can you get from a tank of petrol as I filled it up on Tuesday and uncertain how far it will get me?

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Hi Julian,
Sounds like you are ready for a longer run now. If you trust your work get out this weekend but one tip i can give you is ride with a open faced helmet so you can listen to the engine as you ride it. I am a great listener with a new build. I live in the Pennines and have a near traffic free 25 mile test ride route, it has some long steady gradients and some long decents great to try a new motor. I think that if it does this 25 mile test ride OK you are nearly there. As i ride it i listen to the engine if something is going wrong you can hear it before you feel it. As long as you are not running weak with the mixture you will be OK. No good looking at the plug when you have run it in the garage check it after a uphill run pull the valve lifter in immediately after the engine has done a bit of work then look at the plug.
If you know that the engine and oil tank and lines were clean when you built it you should be OK for a hundred miles before you change the oil.
I do spend a lot of time making sure the oil tank is fully clean, whats the point of building a new motor and connecting it to a dirty oil tank. It amazes me just how much hard crap you can get out of the bottom of a oil tank.
Let us know how you have got on.

Tim Walker

email (option): t.j.walker@btinternet.com

Thanks Tim,

I've just been out on a nice little ride to Tintern Abbey and back and the bike ran a dream, but I noticed that the bike started to cause a bit of a bounce with the engine, very slight but up to this point the bike has been very smooth.
When I pulled up at the traffic lights the engine was running allot faster than normal and when I got it home it was again running faster which has made me adjust the throttle stop screw, to get it to slow down a bit.
It may be that it has now slackened up a little inside and hence the improved performance but not sure what has caused the engine vibration that is in perfect timing with the turnover of the engine?

A lovely 90 year old man and his family came over and advised that he use to be an off road trainer in the war up in the Lake District, he use to ride the M20 as a commuting bike and loved the restoration, he also said that his bike was olive drab but the deep bronze green colour I have, he saw the military police use this colour as they had a gloss finish and they had to keep them in impeccable order.

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Julian, First thing I'd do is check-tighten all the engine fasteners. Loosening off after a rebuild is especially a problem where powder coat has been used. This will cause exactly the symptoms you describe and a loose engine (with carb attached) can suffer from fuel frothing due to the vibes which will mess up tickover.

The CMP would have received standard motorcycles but units in the UK which had a tradition of a bit of bull would frequently rub them over with just the right sort of oil to give a parade ground shine.

Juilan, Ric is most likely right about the loose engine after powder coating, best to check all the fasteners. Just keep riding the bike and check it out after each ride. You will soon be doing 80+ mile rides as the confidence rises. If you are confident of a clean engine and oil tank before rebuild just keep riding it. M's do get hot but if you keep the engine from not slogging and avoid high revs for a long periods it will be ok, just let the engine do the work without stress, as i said listen to it. A tank full of juice will go a long way but keep your eye on the tank.
Keep us informed please.
PS don't forget its not just about oil changes, wash and check the filter as this is where the shit will collect, do this in a clen contaner with white spirits and see what comes out, if it's clean you are changing the oil too soon.
Tim W

email (option): t.j.walker@btinternet.com

I think I read in one of your posts that you have no trouble starting the engine on full advance? If so and you think the engine might be running a bit hot. It would be worth re checking the ignition timing. It could be a bit retarded. Just a thought. As normally they will kick back when kick starting on full advance.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Dear Ron,

Your spot on as always, the timing position for the gap opening was spot on 7/16" BTDC, however the gap was allot larger than 0.0010" - 0.0012" when opened at it's widest point, I';ve re-adjusted the contact gap, whaich then mean't that the opening position had changed and also needed re-setting.
Will run it in the morning, but looking hopeful that this will resolve the timing issue.

Many thanks,

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com