Having read all/most of the postings on this matter, I'm no nearer making up my mind.

So a few pointers would be greatly appreciated.

What I wasn’t to do is to return the paintwork on my 1944 16H to the correct colour and then distress it to add patina.

So my questions are:
1. What would be the correct colour for a 1944 bike?
2. Where can I source the paint?
3. Bearing in mind that I will be distressing the finish should I hand paint or spray? I'm not after a "perfect" finish as I will be distressing the bike to add patina. I just don't want it looking poorly done (like it currently is).

Many thanks
Ian

email (option): ian@ian-richards.com

Ian in readiness for D Day the colour chosen by the WO was BS 298 Olive Drab (British). This was to fall more or less in line with the US colours. My preference is Firwood brand by 'Jeep Parts UK'.
No factory produced bikes were hand painted! Why would you want to pretend distress it?? Are you making a film prop? I would suggest you do a proper job and then let it age naturally.
Just my 2p's worth. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Ron
Thanks for the info ... my dilemma is resolved :-)
As to distressing ... all my bikes are oily rag (and so am I), so it just seemed natural, but we'll see.

As for paint finish ... I will now get the tin ware sprayed.

UPDATE
I have just spoken to Graham at Jeep Parts and he advised not going down the route of a single pack synthetic paint on a motorcycle due to it's likelihood to be damaged by petrol. He strongly advised going down the two-part route.

Your two 'penneth worth would be greatly appreciated.



Many thanks
Ian

email (option): ian@ian-richards.com

I have used two pack a few times but only with gloss, and would consider it much more hard wearing and petrol proof. Ask Horror, he finished his 16H with 2pk but he had issues with it being too shiny. But if Graham can sort you out the right stuff, I'd go for it. The main problem with 2pk from my experience is that it goes hard (or jellyfied) in the gun after a few hours. I only do small batches of paintwork, then a total clean up of the gun and throw away any unused paint. I often leave synthetic paint in the gun for a few days.
It's also dangerous to your health and professionals use full breathing apparatus in their spray booths. I spray outside with a normal proper filter mask and try and work so that any breeze takes it away from me.

I can sort of understand the oily rag look.....Although it's not for me! But to my mind, to actually restore a bike to a lookalike oily rag condition beggars belief!..... But don't take any notice of me it's your bike and I'll still talk to you in France Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Having just (re) sprayed my first B4 in a lovely KG No.3, and used 2 pack paint for the 5th time, I can only say it's far superior to any other paint!

But you have to take the safety precautions as Ron stated, but have not have had the problem of paint setting in the gun, even after 6 hours.

Also you have to do 2 runs, first with the full adviced amount of hardener, with me 20%, and about 20% thinner, then a second run with 40-50% thinner, and maybe 3-5% hardener, then you get the right matt finish, takes a bit longer to dry, but still with very good results.





The batterybox was painted with Mike Starmers Recepy of Humbrol modelling paint tins, and is same as my paint, and various N.O.S. parts in KG. No. 3.

All paints are different ofcourse, so you'll have to experiment a bit.

Cheers,

Lex

email (option): welbike(at)welbike.net

Hi
I have had a colour mixed by my local car paint supplier for my James which is a pretty good match for SCC2 and I have had this mixed in 2 pack matted down mainly because a cheap 2 pack paint is about the same price per kilo as a synthetic equivalent. It is possible to have a matting agent added to 2 pack to give the sheen you want, but it does apparently ever so slightly change the finished colour. It does mean you spray it as standard mixing ratio 2:1 + 10%, but you end up with a very hard wearing finish that is matt to look at yet smooth to the touch! As Lex says is it far superior to any other paint just take precautions as to it's use.
Daren

I have always used synthetic with good results..but please Ian, whatever paint you choose, No artificial patina ....Take it out in the bad weather now and again, bring it over to Bere Alston and ride along the tidal road a few times in the mud and you will soon acquire the real thing.(and have some fun in the process)....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

smother it with oil and go for a run over dry dirt roads, Salisbury Plain is ideal, then run it down a byway thats so deep in mud you'll need a jeep to pull it out.
Leave to dry.
Rub the paint on the tank through to the metal where your knees hit it, stand about 10 feet back and throw a lump hammer at various tin bits, bend at least one footrest skywards, loosen random nuts so bits rattle.

paint contract number on with a really scabby brush.

There you have it.

patinated.

sorted.

email (option): deadsheds@yahoo.com

Thanks guys.
I think I need to clarify what I intend regarding my bike and perhaps I should not have used the term "distressing" as we are not talking about a pair of Levi's after all.

It is not my wish to return the bike to its original factory fresh appearance, rather to return it to how it looked just before it was demobbed.

Now I'm going to make a possibly rash assumption that most of the dents in the tin-ware occurred during its military service, so these are not going to be removed. Any faulty components will be repaired, incorrect bits replaced and the bike sprayed the correct colour. Patina will be added naturally by judicious use of "oily rag" maintenance. A quick wipe over and nothing more.

No sledge hammers or stones needed and no motorcycles will be harmed in the making of this ...

My preference for a bike is one in its "working clothes" not one in its best bib and tucker ;-)

Regards
Ian

email (option): ian@ian-richards.com

That's my idea too

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet'dot'nl

Ian, if you want patina, just lend it to me for 2 weeks, and you won't recognise it again!!! offroading, riding in the sea, snow, small accidents etc. etc.



Cheers,

Lex

email (option): welbike(at)welbike.net

Perfect, just like my old G3L
TTFN
Ian

email (option): ian@ian-richards.com

Smother it in oil Ken? My old Matchless takes care of that for itself!

I agree with most here, there's no need to fake it, just use it, enjoy it and the 'patina' will come naturally with time.