Assembling the clutch as per suggestions, leaving out the last steel plate and one fibre plate has left me in doubt- the center inner pressure plate (the part that has the clutch spring well with studs for the outer section) bottoms out and keeps the clutch from engaging. As I tightened the center nut with spring in compression, it still spins freely- the clutch inner and outer don't bite.
I'm wondering if the plates are too thin- what are the standard spec for steel and fibre plates? The fibre plates are new. As soon as I find my Vernier caliper I will measure them, they are marked "Ferodo" so I assumed original.

There has got to be something wrong with your assembly Vince. Stupid Question, but I assume you have the clutch cable disconnected at this point? Buy leaving out the 2 plates (Which I always do) you will probably have to shorten the push rod a tad, which you can remove from the kick start side. If you disassemble your clutch and put just the pressure plate on, you will see that it slides on, more than enough to squeeze the plates. The standards book states the Ferodo plates as 3/32" thick. However I have found even used plates to be thicker.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Another thing... you can also adjust the 'grub screw' (I believe that's what you brits call it) on the clutch arm. A turn or so on mine made all the difference.

Kevin

No Kevin a 'grub screw' is what we call sex in your lunch break Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Now, that is typically Ron; always only one thing on his mind !

Yes, Ron,
There is no clutch cable installed, and the pushrod is nor installed either. I haven't even had the chance to fully tighten the center nut, but I would have thought the spring would have given enough tension to make the clutch pack nip up.I'll pull all the plates out and check it to make sure the pressure plate inner slides freely, but there doesn't seem to be an issue there. It just seems to hit bottom and stop.With all but one of the plates installed.
How thick are the steel plates supposed to be? Mine are all quite thin, 1/16" maybe?
Thanks, Vincent

Sorry Vince I should have given that to you earlier. The steel plates are 18 gauge 0.048" if worn to 0.030" they are still acceptable at overhaul. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Seems you don't need to lose those 2 plates if they're thinner than original.

Hey Vince,

I had an interesting idea about putting a CD 350 Honda clutch in one of my M20s. It may be easier than I initially thought. I have a Honda clutch I gought for 20 bucks off ebay. Cost more (21) to ship it. LOL!!

Putting in a Matchy sprocket would make it easy as it fits Honda cush rubbers!

It'll take just a bit of wire burn and a new pushrod if I'm correct in that I am thinking. I may come up with a belt drive ala Honda too.

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

Well, I have found the problem, and it isn't what you may think. There was nothing wrong with the assembly, the plate thickness, or use of any repro parts. Herein lies a lesson to anybody who wants to drop an extra clutch plate.
First, I measured the center and inner pressure plate using a spare center I bought (NOS off e-Bay) and found .890" available between the two parts. Clutch pack together (less one steel plate and one fibre) measures 0.925" so I was OK there. All plates as original was closer to 1.075"


Next I installed the inner pressure plate to the center in the bike already, and found I had exactly 1.00" between the two surfaces. What the... and it had clearance at the bottom, On closer inspection, the center portion has a rounded bottom, and the HOLE in the center of the inner pressure plate was in fact bottoming out (see pointer).


Seems that I chose of the three inners, the one that was in the bike when I got it, and the one that will not allow me to drop a plate!!
The other ones are machined almost square right to the bottom.

My options are three-
1. Use all plates as per original spec.
2. Machine out the center hole of the inner pressure plate.
3. Swap center part out.
I think I'll go with option 1 and hopefully will have no further issues.

And Robb, I have a complete clutch here so will at least try it out before considering any switch to a replacement. Here's the drawbolt affair I made to use the clutch hub puller as a compressor too. Seems to work great.