I'm rebuilding the gearbox with more care and knowledge than 15 years ago, thanks to the collective wisdom now available
Still another question: I have two control shafts with pegs 66-3258, one with 10.3 mm and the second with 7.1 mm pegs.
I understand that the smaller ones are post-war, and supposed to be better; correct

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet'dot'nl

Another problem: those pesky little springs 15-4139 and 15-4161. They are a real PITA to remove and replace. I tried two sets, one NOS (I suppose, from Russells) and one of recent production, but there was no difference.
I think I have to do some grinding on the pawl pivots, or is there a better idea

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet'dot'nl

Hi Hans..Gently tap a tapered punch into the 'eye' of the spring...This will open it up and make it easier to fit...Do it progressively and do the minimum required....
I'll post later on the other question...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I keep being busy with that gearbox. I tested for play with the inner gasket in place; first main shaft: .5mm play, then lay shaft: hardly any play, but finally the control shaft: 1mm. Is that acceptable?
If shims are needed, where to insert them?
Questions, questions...

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet'dot'nl

Hi Hans.
You want to looking for .005" - .010" end float on all shafts.
Check the thickness of your inner cover gasket, it needs to be of a thin gasket material 0.4mm thick.
Shims can be placed on the main shaft between the oil flinger and the bearing spacer at the selector end and if need, between the sleeve gear and its oil retaining washer. Large amounts of play on the main shaft can sometimes be attributed to a worn spline end where it butts up against the sleeve gear so check that as well.
With the other two shafts shims can be placed behind the flanges of the bushes to move the bush inward.

Hope this helps.

email (option): spacemonkeym@gmail.com

The design means that the selector shaft isn't turned through many degrees for each gear engagement, & that small amount of turn that's translated to the selector pins in those slots is very very reliant on lack of end play, it doesn't take much play at all in the selector shaft to effectively lose most of your selector action.
Its very important to get selector shaft play down to an absolute minimum.

That worked ok Ian, thanks!
End play on main shaft and lay shaft is now 0.1 mm, and on the control shaft hardly perceptible.
I also found out that you have to really tighten the gearbox sprocket locknut before working on the end play of the (NOS) main shaft; it moved nearly .3mm.
But gear changing is rough; could this be due to the small pegs? They were NOS, and with the big pegs I had no problems

email (option): viaconsu [at] planet'dot'nl