I have 1 persistent fuel tap leak which I cannot seem to get rid of easily despite new corks etc

I normally soak in fuel first remove the old cork material completely, fit new cork & re-assemble the tap

It just seems to reappear after a while - weeping slightly, only this time a little more than usual

Tap condition is good with no splitting of the metal sides etc

At this stage originality is not a 100% rule, but practicality is

Any recommendations as to where or what type of tap I can get before I leave for France

Best regards

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Hi John...I use BAP taps..available from many Brit bike shops.(and probably e bay)They aren't expensive and don't leak. You need to be sure of your threads though before ordering. My bike has 1/4"BSP both into the tank adapter and at the petrol pipe connection. Some have 1/8"BSP at the tap end and even the tank end needs to be confirmed in case someone has changed that along the way. In my experience none of the taps that are replicas of the various original types are leak free and they generally cost twice as much as the BAPs....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi John..This one is my mate Monty in Tavistock. He's quick on mail order as well... 130879035770 ...I paint mine black and you hardly notice them..(other than the fact you can't smell petrol)...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Another ex-Hobbsy reprobate !

The BAPs are good. I've used them on Commandos for years and it takes a long time before the sealing washer wears. They can break if the large OD locknut is overtightened and they don't fit WD16Hs (the high clearance / high engine) WD frame means these long taps don't clear the inlet stub).

Hi Ian

Many thanks

I sent you 2 x pics of the tap I removed from the bike, maybe you could id the thread types for me just to ensure I order correctly

Best regards

John

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

Hi John..I've mailed you...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I use the brass racing type with gauze filters on my WD16H. I know its not completely original but its nice to have one part from the sporting models!

Hi Ian

Thanks for that

I'll contact your pal and ask if he does them 1/4 at tank side & 1/8 at fuel line side

My fuel line is std m20 metal coiled copper pipe so final question from me is if I fit these taps as you recommend, do I have to reshape or modify the original m20 fuel line in any way to account for any dimensional difference between the BAP & original push/pull Enots ?

Best regards

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

John, they have a rough length of 67mm compared with 52mm for the hexagon Enots so you'll have to make some clearance somewhere. If screwed right in then you're going to have to find about another 14mm which is a bit more than I'd want to tweak work-hardened copper.

Why not go the whole hog and fit a bobber tank with stainless steel fuel lines...

Sounds like I might have to compress or reshape the fuel line Rik by as you maintain - at least 14mm :-/

I'll have a look see at kempton so & see what turns up

I have that BAP style tap on my Daytona and as Ian said no smell of fuel etc

No point having a new mag if I destroy it with fuel dropping on it

Alternatively, a coffin fuel tank with polished st steel line & a Maltese rear light could be all the rage for Normandy this year

:-D

Thanks for your help lads

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

I made up a flexible feed for mine whilst I was playing around with mixing chamber nut lengths. It might be the easiest way until you make a final decision about what you're going to do.

You can do what you like for Normandy this year but Army Command, Atlantic Wall West (Hello Ian !) will have you keel-hauled under an LCT if you turn up next year like that !

Thanks for all folks

Been working outside UK again this week so tomorrow I will re-fit new corks that have been asking in petrol all week

Lets hope it does the trick

If not I notice another post which has other possibilities

Best regards

Jo'b

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

No that won't do the trick.
You need to soak the corks in warm water not petrol.
petrol does not get adsorbed by cork ( if it did they wouls not seal )
The water swells up the cork and the petrol on the water wet cork prevents tham from drying out.
I used to soak the corks for about 1/2 hour, then let them dry for about the same time. Finally a thin wipe over with petrolium jelly and in they went never to leak unless I let the tank run dry for weeks.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au