Hi Again,

I just had a couple of queries on the chaincase...

During my restoration, I foolishly filled the tank with oil and left it for months, at the time the chaincase cover was removed, and the contents of the tank eventually emptied itself onto the garage floor! I'm assuming that it is normal for oil to get past the main bearing and into the chaincase when this happens.

My second question relates to the oil level in the chain case. I filled it with oil for the first time yesterday, and it didnt take long for oil to start spilling out. It was coming from the inner case, where it mates up with the main engine housing. I'd fitted new gaskets, and even used Heldite compound - I was convinced it should have been oil tight! So anyway, I wasnt sure how much oil to put in, so I filled it until it covered the chain. I forgot however that the bike isnt sitting level (its pitched forward - no front wheel fitted), and therefore I wasnt getting a correct level. The level must have reached the seal on the inner cover. Bugger.

So, is the little plug on the face of the chain case actually a level plug? If thats the case then it really doesnt need much oil!

Thanks,

Andrew

email (option): adh325@hotmail.com

Correct Andy. Yes the oil can run through the main bearings if the oil drains down from the tank. Running the engine at regular intervals will return the oil or try to fix the problem properly. Also yes to the level plug below the foot peg. It gives just enough oil for the chain to dip in. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron.

Any good tips for making sure the Chaincase is well sealed up first time? I suspect the mating faces on the cases I have aren't completely true which doesn't help. I'll need a new cork gasket obviously, but do you normally supplement it with a sealer of some kind?

Thanks,

Andy

1) the bolt about 1/2 from the bottom almost directly under the inspection hole is the oil level.
The oil should just be starting to dribble out of this hole.
2) there should be both a casket between the engine & inner chain casae and a stiffener plate on the other side of the inner guard. the 4 bolts holding the chaincase on shuld be lockwired si they can not come loose.
3) The holes in the outer chaincase must be flat. Most are cupped in from being over tightened so a little work with a small hammer might be on the cards.
4) on mine I put a big washer and thin spring washer behind every bolt to spread the load. I had to file a flat on a lot of them so they did not foul on the curved section of the chaincase.
5 ) the cork gasket must be soft. If it is hard then replace it.
6) Start to tighten the bolts from the middle bottom then go left right left right. This will stop the gasket bunching up at the bottom. Some tighten as you would a head.
Bottom middle, top above it. bottom right side, top left side, top right, bottom left, top 2nd right, top 2nd left, bottom 2nd right, bottom 2nd left , etc.etc.

email (option): wariron@tpg.com.au

I glued my new cork gasket to the outer chain-case some years ago with Evostick. I then greased the other side of the gasket. I have removed/replaced the chain-case a number of times by just re-greasing it each time. There are so many screws, that if they are tightened evenly something like the fashion Trevor suggests then mine never leaks! I also fit 2BA washers under the screws. Again I grease them, it helps to stop your paint cracking. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I spent a bit of time getting this right and thankfully my chain case hasn't spilt a drop yet.
I wired all the engine bolts together in the chain case and used a gasket in between with a good dollop of Hylomar Blue on both faces of the gasket, this acts like a silicon sealant and resists oil.
Don't be shy with the Hylomar and so long as it presses out when tightened up the you can tidy it all up once dry.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com