Great day today with the arrival of all my cables and the rear pannier frames that fit a treat and will get sent to paint tomorrow.
On assembly of the throttle, I noticed that the throttle twist grip is very slightly sticky in places, but maybe it's me comparing against my modern GSXR, how smooth should the throttle twist grip be?
Is it a case of replacing the springs in the Amal carb or do I just keep slacking of the spring in the throttle twist grip until the grip rotates with absolute ease?.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Hi Julian,
Your twist grip should go as easy as your GSX-R.
If not, throw your BSA away and buy a Norton WD16H.....
Regards,
Sven
email (option): snvosselman@gmail.com
Thanks Sven, think its the powder coat on the handlebars, just ran a 7/8" reamer through the twist grip body andit appears to be a little smoother in rotation.
A bit severe Sven to throw it away, especially for a Norton
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
I'm a little puzzled by Sven's comments as with Norton handling and Roadholding, one rarely needs to back off and close the throttle....
I think it's true to say that throttles which 'snapped' shut were not highly thought of during the 1930s (most motorcyclists had started with lever throttles). In addition, hand signals, including "I am intending to turn right" were expected by public and Police.
The twistgrip will have a friction screw - make sure that's right off if you don't want it. Route the cable carefully and make sure that throttle and choke are not binding. However, it'll never be like a bank of Keihins with radial springs on the linkages. (If it doesn't slow down immediately, the M20 won't take you into the back of an accelerating Porsche at 180 mph either so there are compensations).
Original bars were just blown over with a single coat of matt paint. Powder coat under the twistgrip is not something that was calculated into the tolerances so you may have to do something there.
Thanks Rik.
Backed the friction bolt right off and now the throttle is smooth. The reamer helped through the twist grip, as there was a bit of ovality in the body.
I thought the springs were a bit soft in the carb, but now it seems to be smooth and sufficient tension on the cable.
I can't compare the Gsxr with it to much and I don't think I',ll be looking at Porsches with menace in my mind, more like a unimog if I'm lucky
Thanks again.
Julian.
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
What I've always found a bit strange is that the throttle cable goes 'under' the front brake lever as this could be in the way when you need to use your front brake. If the throttle is positioned as on the forum picture the gas cable makes quite a sharp corner at the gas tank.
I used to do a bit of classic racing in the past and when your throttle was positioned that the cable went underneath the front brake lever, the bike was rejected....
I'm not sure if I leave it like this or change it to 'original' position. My throttle cable 'clacks' really nice back into position now, but as Rik stated, Nortons don't really need to close the throttle....
Regards,
Sven
email (option): snvosselman@gmail.com
I can see that, you have to keep the Norton flat out to make up for time lost replacing the valve guides.. ...I like a snap shut throttle myself but as with many things, among my friends opinion and preference varies...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
All cables connected and the levers all operational.
My stainless exhaust is at the vapour blasters so I'll have to fit the original exhaust to see if I can get my M20 started for the very first time this weekend.
Just filling out the V765 form to re-instate my original registration number but curious if I have to give the DVLA my original buff logbook, or will a photo copy suffice. Don't want to loose this old logbook as it is quite a special document.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Hi Julian...When I did my WB30 a 'certified' copy of the logbook was OK for the DVLA. I took the original to my local DVLA office and they copied it, stamped the copy and then put a note on it to the effect that it was a true copy of the original logbook...That then went to the main DVLA at Swansea with the form etc....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Think I have a problem with the magneto, not being a sparky I was hoping this would be okay but I'm not getting a spark, despite having a new plug fitted and the points gap is correct and were cleaned with 400 grit emery, I think the mag is having to come out and get sent for a rewind?
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Think I have a problem with the magneto, not being a sparky I was hoping this would be okay but I'm not getting a spark, despite having a new plug fitted and the points gap is correct and were cleaned with 400 grit emery, I think the mag is having to come out and get sent for a rewind?
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Hi Julian...Check the connection (contact) of the HT lead to the pick up and try sparking the mag against the head without a cap or plug fitted..
Generally I recommend that mags are never fitted without a rebuild, particularly so if they are an 'unknown quantity' or have been standing for years, as they are highly likely to be defective. As a strong mag is the key to good starting (particularly when hot) it isn't a good plan to take a chance with them....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Ian,
Will have a go at cleaning it up as per Horrors great advise, but if all else fails have you any recommendation who I could send my Mag off to for a service?
Kind regards
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Hi Julian...I can rebuild your mag but there is currently an approx. 6 week turnaround time...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
I'm happy with that as I'm in no real rush and want it all done properly, will get it stripped tonight.
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
Think I've found the problem, the pick-up contact is to short and had fallen out of the holder, will replace witha new pickup and will also get a new earth bush contact for the Magdyno.
I hope thats it, else it's over to you Ian.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
I thought I read somewhere that someone had a Magdyno service sheet.
has anyone got a copy so I can check mine out to see if I can tell if it may need re-winding?
Julian
email (option): 79aust@sky.com
It's been a while as I've been working silly hours with work, but today I've managed to take time out and try and sort the Magneto out.
Had to take the mag/dyno off to service with new contacts, earth and main pickups along with a new nylon cam follower (surprised how much wear was on the original).
I've managed to turn a timing tool for my long reach clock (25.4mm travel) which is now proven and works fantastically for getting the 11.1125mm before TDC positioning)
I guess this shouldn't of been funny but it was very satisfying when I got the magneto serviced and back on the bike with the wife holding the spark plug whilst I kicked the engine over for the first time with the serviced magneto, previously when my wife held the plug there was no effect as the Magneto contacts and pickups were worn, this time however it was delightfull to watch my wife get electricuted as I kicked it over, I have to say that I don't think she was impressed, especially as I was standing there with a smile as wide as the severn bridge across my face 
.
I've now managed to get it started and it sounds gorgeously smooth and mechanically sound, it was also nice to see the ameter display a positive charge of about 1-2 amps on tick over, also proving that elecrically it now also appears sound.
Geat to have the kids commentry in the background and asking questions like 'why does it start and then stop' (doesn't help when your trying to figure it out for yourself)LOL.
Great to have it working at last.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
A proud owner starting it up for the first time:
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
That, Julian, is a wonderful photograph. Bloody Well Done !
Thanks Rik.
Just need the saddle covers, the speedo back from Chronometric repairs, my stainless exhaust(which is still at the vapour blasters as the guy is away for the month) and a new brass fuel pipe 1/4" BSP nut as mine had a hairline crack running through it which was caused a drip of petrol that took me ages to pin point.
Chuffed to bits that it's running though.
Now I need to finish off the paperwork for the DVLA to get it re-registered, as it has taken nearly 5 weeks to get the V5 form from the DVLA.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Super restoration Julian! Well done!
Jan
email (option): wd.register@gmail.com
Very well done Julian!
The happiness on your little girls' face must be because she finally got her ball after all these months now the green monster is outside!
However your restoration hasn't been finished yet, I found it very interesting to follow. Thanks for sharing.
Regards,
Sven
email (option): snvosselman@gmail.com
Good effort Julian..and it has been interesting following the trials and tribulations along the way...It's funny now to think back to the original question ...'Is this too far gone to restore?'... ...Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
A happy man indead, well done
email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk
Sorry for the delay in response Jeff, but been away.
The fuel pipe is the original that I had to thoroughly clean to remove all the purple paint from with paint stripper, PRO-RUST Gel to remove the oxidisation and then polished with a little brasso.
One of the nuts has got a hairline crack running through it which has taken an age to source the leak. I've ordered 2 new Nut and Nipples and will solder the repair accordingly.
It's worth mentioning though that it's the little cheap details that make me really pleased with my restoration, as I was struggling to source some copper washers for the petrol tank, sump bolts and the timing bolt on the head, when I found a little old garage in my area and a lovely man who had a box with 2" of dust on it that had a full assortment of copper washers. It looked like he never used them and for £0.80 all my sealing problems have been solved, what a great investment.
Going back to the fuel pipe, I have a heap of this 1/4" copper pipe and I'm tempted to make a few of these pipes as they seem to be a little tricky to source and the rubber equivalent isn't anywhere near the same. I just need to turn a forming mandrel for the coil then I'll have a goe, will keep you informed if you are interested.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
I'm starting to scratch my head a bit now as I'm slowly running out of ideas.
My bike starts on the first kick but then dies quite quickly and I'm not getting any real response from the throttle.
The plug appears dry so it's certainly not flooding and petrol is flowing to the carb.
As the bike has been rebored, does it require a new needle valve a size up. The original needle valve appeared perfect in condition.
The timing bolt is sealed with a copper washer to minimise air getting in and I can't figure out how to get any throttle response as the carb is not sticking and the float is also working.
If anyone is near Chepstow, uk I would love their assitance.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com
Hi Julian..You won't need to alter the jet sizes due to the rebore..
It sounds like you have a petrol supply problem of some sort...Does it just 'fade away' and not respond to the throttle?...Check that some air is getting in at the filler cap..If not, that causes a vacuum in the tank preventing the petrol coming out. A simple test is just to run it with the cap open. Also you need to establish the float is working OK and not sticking at all and preventing more petrol coming in...Again, try running the bike with the top of the float chamber removed and you can observe what is happening as the fuel level drops....Ian
email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com
Thanks for your wonderful wisdom as always Ian.
It is a fuel starvation issue as I have just had it ticking over for nearly 5-10 minutes wit hthe fuel cap undone and by tickling the float so that the chamber is full to the start of the thread, once the weight of fuel drops to about a 1/4" below the thread then the bike dies.
The float seems to be working okay, the engine is just getting starved of fuel by the look of things. It still doesn't respond yet to the throttle and just dies when the throttle is opened then recovers itself when closed, I've tweeked the screws a 1/4 of a turn for each setting to get the bike ticking over and now it runs by itself but I just need to watch the fuel level in the float chamber.
I've got the needle valve on the 3rd notch to allow as much fuel in as possible.
I've no experience with carbs so it's all a bit suck it and see at the moment, but I think it's getting there slowly and more down to carb settings than anything major. Oil is also circulating nicely and if I put my ear to the oil tank open cap, you can here the crank pump nicely.
Julian
email (option): 79Aust@sky.com