My G3L came with a NOS engine, I have disassembled this engine to replace all the gaskets and oil the components before first start.
The open seam of the head gasket was facing the barrel and thats how I put the new one in.
I use BSA C15 head gaskets. They fit almost perfectly, you just need to slightly enlarge two of the stud holes. Plenty of solid copper rather than a flimsy ring.
I run a G3L with an 8.5-1 piston and the C15 gasket copes perfectly.
Cheers, Mick.
Following the rebuild on my WD G3L I fitted the head gasket asbestos down or facing the cylinder..it blew within the first 10 miles. Les (the font of all etc etc )at Russels when ordering a new gasket said don't forget to fit the gasket asbestos facing up toward the cylinder head will you!
Followed the advice and no problems since.....that will do for me.
I've just got back from a 20 mile round trip on the Matchless and the bloody head gaskets gone!! Would you believe it, after me saying how well it had lasted!?! I'll try the new one seam facing upwards and see how many miles I get out of it that way.
My 16H also has a copper asbestos gasket and the official manual says and I quote " fit washer with the bright side to the barrel". I imagine that means seam up!
I've just got back from a 20 mile round trip on the Matchless and the bloody head gaskets gone!! Would you believe it, after me saying how well it had lasted!?! I'll try the new one seam facing upwards and see how many miles I get out of it that way.
Bill,
Did you check if the bolts didn't bottom out?? or lots of crud/paint/sealer ect. could be down there, then it feels like you're tightening something, but you're not, best run a tap through the 4 threads, did you use the steel washers?
Never really paid any attention to how the gasket goes, but after a good run, ALLWAYS retighten head bolts!!! (yes I know, you have to take the tank and rockerbox off again, and re-adjust the tappets.
So I did get some solid gaskets, and will use them for sure next time! (thanks Ron) no more retightening the head bolts, saves a lot of time and agrevation
The M20 head gasket should be fitted 'seam upwards'...though that makes little difference now I've thrown them over the hedge and fitted a far more reliable solid copper one...Ian
I agree Lex, I did check and tighten the bolts about 150 miles back, but the trouble is that by the time you've taken the tank and rocker box off to tighten the head bolts down, you may as well as taken the head off and changed the gasket too? It would be so annoying to take it all to bits, tighten the bolts, change the rocker gasket, put it back together and still have a leak at the end of it all and have to start all over again. Where did you get your solid gaskets from? Sounds like the way to go. Years ago I made some myself for an old Villiers engined Sun from an old copper hot water tank, but I think the Matchless deserves better?
Bill I had a small batch made here quite cheaply. http://coppergaskets.us/
I still have a couple left but would rather keep them. Or I could get some more made I suppose or you could speak to Lani. He's very helpful. Ron
..That could well be true Matt...it's a real hedge I'm talking about. Though I did sell one guy about 3 1/2 six spring clutches for £10 on condition he didn't come back with any problems ....
The original head gaskets were OK...I certainly didn't have such problems with them when I was in my teens/early 20s. It's only since the asbestos in the 'sandwich' has been replaced with health and safety cardboard that they have become so unpredictable.... ....Ian
Ron, Thanks very much for the tip. I've now fitted a new asbestos gasket, but if you do get any more solid ones made up in the future, let me know and I'll certainly buy a few from you. It's the same one as on my AJS, so it would make sense to have a few in stock?